Hot new styles from Milan Fashion Week
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PRADA conjures 1970s simplicity
Miuccia Prada was in search of the naive for her new collection. She found herself in the 1970s, a world of leather and corduroy, oil landscape paintings and natural amulets.
“That is what came out. I didn’t want it, but it came out naturally,” Prada said backstage, adding that the 1970s were “a very important moment for protests, for rights, for humanity.”
So the corduroy leisure suit with big pockets, the soft cashmere sweaters with fuzzy reproductions of landscapes, the furry shoes sticking out from the cuffed bell bottom pants and the hand-knit pullovers mimicking a stain glass window are all her expressions of normality.
And the collection, in its simplicity, is her protest against excess, the modern need for everything to be big.
The collection also featured womenswear, including leather jackets with stud detailing, slit leather walking skirts and brimmed corduroy caps.
Amulets of shells, stones or branches that Prada said she plucked from the woods herself accented the looks for both men and women.
Japan inspires Missoni
Missoni is bursting with color for next season’s collection, with layered looks to enliven any urban center.
But if Angela Missoni had one specifically in mind, it is Tokyo; not for its youth counterculture or traditional silhouette, but its enduring craftsmanship.
Much of the detailing of the collection shown on Sunday in Milan was inspired by Japan, including the star-fish shaped metallic embroidery on knitwear inspired by Shibori designs. Patchwork overcoats employed the technique of kimono making. And boxy jackets recalled Japanese workwear.
Together, the urban nature of the collection cannot be denied. But taken by piece, there were many seafaring references, from thick duffel coats with robe fasteners, high-neck cable knit sweaters with matching caps, and bucket hats in the Missoni zigzag that had a sailor-geek vibe. Short scarves were tied around the neck.
The hats, which also include a beret, were the result of one of Missoni’s many collaborations, this one with the Parisian milliner Larose.
Armani blurs lines
Giorgio Armani has reinterpreted the classics with a modern edge for his youthful Emporio Armani line.
Armani is hewing to the traditional menswear and womenswear calendars, but blurring the line on the runway.
Many of the looks were feminized, like flowing knitwear or curved hemlines on short jackets. Trousers tended to be ample and pleated, and Armani employed luxurious fabrics like velvets for men and lots of fur, both as trim and full fur coats.
Double-breasted suits with soft hemlines and loose trousers recalled a 1940s cool, while fur collars on overcoats harkened to a 1970s mod.
Armani mixed geode-like patterns with plaids, sticking with gray scale to black for a contemporary urban feel. Thick, furry neck warmers framed the face, while molded brim hats topped the sophisticated silhouette. Bags included big pockets on cross-body halters.
D&G’s ‘New Princes’
Dolce&Gabbana have one-upped themselves, moving the young millennial crowd that has populated their front row in recent seasons onto the runway.
Pop star Austin Mahone, dapper in a tux with tapered legs, set the mood, dancing up and down the runway throughout the show, making the moves on the ladies, who included Sylvester Stallone’s three daughters.
Dolce&Gabbana’s show was titled “The New Princes” and it’s clear that they are catering to a young, selfie-savvy generation bred on social media. In an ultimate branding move, the designing pair created a pair of faceQ app-like images of themselves on jackets and sweaters.
Alongside the brand’s trademark tailored suits, the new collection includes zany plush animal head hoods or backpacks, and Rasta knit hats or crowns over baseball caps, fun-loving Harajuku touches for a generation that prizes its juvenile side. The collection was a fast and furious display of graphic prowess with humanized animal
motifs alongside the brand’s typical religious imagery.
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