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March 5, 2017

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Crocodiles to zebras, times are changing

Source: Shanghai Daily | March 5, 2017, Sunday | Print Edition

THERE is a lot going on in the fashion world right now. New ranges, designer changes. Saint Laurent goes derelict, Lanvin gets down-toearth and Chloe gets a rare deal of approval from the French culture minister.

Chloe

The presence of France’s culture minister at the Chloe show was a sign of how cherished the Parisian house, founded in 1952 by Mademoiselle Gaby Aghion, is to French national identity.

The house is actually credited with inventing the concept of ready-to-wear.

“Clare was the longest-serving designer there since Karl Lagerfeld, so this is an important moment,” said Minister Audrey Azoulay, who added that she was eager to learn the name of Chloe’s next designer.

Names reportedly being considered include Natacha Ramsay Levi, a womenswear designer at Louis Vuitton. The final chapter in Clare Waight Keller’s reign strayed not too far from the hippy-chic 1970s DNA that’s now synonymous with Chloe.

It was a play-it-safe moment to cap six years at the helm of one of Paris’ most iconic fashion houses. Diaphanous jabot collars, fluttery layers of cascading chiffon and oversize retro fur coats were on the menu.

Saint Laurent

The Saint Laurent show venue — a near-derelict site on the Left Bank that’s undergoing construction and renovation ­— was a clear metaphor.

Vaccarello is continuing his creative reconstruction of the Parisian house since Hedi Slimane’s departure.

As smoke — or was it dust? — wafted from the sides of the set scaffolding, the myriad looks began to file by.

They mixed the shimmering disco-dresses from the Slimane years with the peaked, tuxedo shoulders associated with the late house founder Yves Saint Laurent.

But beyond this, the exhaustive collection seemed less to do with Saint Laurent than Vaccarello himself like last season — in all his brazen, provocative glory.

Plunging necklines met slashed asymmetry.

Patent fetish-like black leather came alongside exposed breasts.

While uber-mini dresses — the staple silhouette — teased the eye with knee-high-, and sometimes stripper-, boots.

Still, there were some nice creative twists, like a leg of mutton sleeve made literally out of mutton.

Elsewhere, there were some skillful abstract plays on leather ruffles — and the ruched boots will fly off the shelves.

Lanvin

There’s been a dramatic change in tone at Lanvin since Bouchra Jarrar took over the creative reins from Alber Elbaz last year.

Slim-cut jackets, menswear python chain boots, and — gasp — pant suits have all been injected into the house’s nostalgic DNA of uber-feminine, diaphanous and glitzy gowns.

The results have been mixed.

Jarrar has added a down-to-earth vibe to the ready-to-wear designs that has lessened the dreamy romanticism associated with the Elbaz years. But the sense luxury and sophistication has not been completely lost.

Contrasts were the order of the day on Wednesday in a show that emphasized frothy neck detailing and Victorian silhouettes.

A coat in bold chevron motif fur contrasted severely with a pale pink mirror satin slip dress.

While, a long striped tweed coat jarred with the soft sheen of a slip dress in ivory mirror satin.

Balmain

Flamboyant designer Olivier Rousteing used the wild animal kingdom as inspiration for his remarkable fall-winter show.

Each model evoked a different creature prowling the runway in tribal-inspired silhouettes.

Snake, crocodile, zebra, tiger, antelope, wolf, bird, horse and sheep were all represented — totems conjured either literally in the material or in imagery.

Some models were clad head-to-toe in leathers and croc or snakeskins, while others sported angry animal motifs that growled at guests. These women were warriors or huntresses, wrapped proudly in the prey they vanquished.

Kendall Jenner wore a leather bodice that resembled armor with an asymmetric, feathered tribal skirt, her hair pulled back in severe braids. She reappeared in black crocodile. Love it or hate it — Rousteing’s designs are totally original.

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