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March 16, 2016

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Seeing Sao Paulo’s true heart on a stopover

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EVEN though the stories about the Zika virus scared many, nothing was going to change my mind about visiting Brazil. I was determined — especially in the year that will bring the Olympic Games to Rio de Janeiro.

The first word that comes up in my mind when I think about Brazil is “hot” — hot weather, hot parties, and well, hot people. It’s the birth-place of some of the most successful football players and numerous top models who walk the runways of Victoria’s Secret.

No matter where you go in Brazil, the people here are quick to tell you that Brazil is the one country truly loved by God, as it has neither experienced major wars or conflict nor natural disasters. Still a developing country, the gap between the rich and the poor causes high rates of crime. But for tourists, it’s a beautiful destination with delicious food, friendly people and gorgeous sightseeing.

I spent the first three days of my trip to Brazil in Sao Paulo, the biggest city in South America. The flight arrived at Guarulhos International Airport on an early Saturday morning. After a 30-hour journey from Shanghai, I was extremely tired but still excited when we finally landed in this fantastic place.

My hotel was located next to the Avenue Paulista, one of the most important avenues in this city. In Portuguese, “Paulista” is used for those born in Sao Paulo. I couldn’t wait to have a cup of Brazilian coffee at the coffee shop before checking in, and had to try the typical cheese bread (Pao de Queijo). In Brazil, there are many brands of coffee shops providing fantastic coffee, snack foods, deserts and fresh fruit juices at very reasonable prices. A cup of expresso and a small fresh-baked bread made me feel a little reenergized after the long flying. But my journey had just started, and as I had scheduled my arrival for the weekend as many fairs are only open on Saturdays and Sundays, I knew that I had a busy time ahead of me.

 

Day 1 (Saturday)

10am Paulista Avenue

Since the 1960s, this avenue has been one of the main business centers in the city. The almost 3-kilometer-long thoroughfare is notable for headquartering a large number of financial and cultural institutions, as well as being home to an extensive shopping area and to South America’s most comprehensive fine-art museum, the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo. Being one of the highest points in Sao Paulo, it is distinctively clustered with radio and TV station antennae. During important festivals such as Christmas and Carnival, decorations and tree lights adorn the street.

On Saturdays and Sundays, antique markets are set up at the gate of MASP. Europeans who immigrated around the time of World War I and II brought plenty of antiques and, if you are lucky, you can find nice watches and other accessories.

The avenue is now a pedestrian shopping street every Sunday. There are several metro stations on the street.

Noon at Liberdade

There’s no Chinatown in Sao Paulo, but there is an oriental district called Liberdade (Portuguese for “Liberty” or “Freedom”). It is home to the largest Japanese community outside Japan. Brazilians with Japanese heritage trace their roots back more than five generations.

As the number of immigrants in the neighborhood grew, so did commercial activity, and both Japanese and Chinese inns, emporiums, restaurants, shops and markets popped up. These new commercial endeavors also become workplaces, which brought more immigrants to the area, and thus the “street of the Japanese” was formed.

On Saturdays and Sundays, there is an open retail market with food stalls. Many locals and travelers come to enjoy Japanese and Korean snacks. Live bands, singers, dancers and street artists bring vivid atmosphere to this area.

There are a number of oriental and Brazilian restaurants In Liberdade, and you can chose to eat snack foods in the market for your lunch.

2pm Sao Paulo Cathedral

Just a few minutes’ walk from Liberdade, you will find the fourth largest neo-gothic cathedral in the world — the Sao Paulo See Metropolitan Cathedral. This amazing piece of architecture with its Renaissance-styled dome will leave you flabbergast.

“See” and “cathedra” mean “seat” and therefore the ecclesiastical authority of a bishop or archbishop is the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Sao Paulo.

4pm Afternoon tea at Coffee Lab

Sao Paulo has terrific expresso options, and there are several coffee shops that roast their own beans, but Coffee Lab is much more than that. Here, coffee enthusiasts will give you a full-on coffee experience. Apart from making a fantastic coffee, the staff are very happy to walk you through the pros and cons of wide range of coffee making paraphernalia they stock and show you around the highly impressive computerized roasting machine.

This hole in the wall coffee place is easy to miss with a rather inconspicuous logo and sign hidden behind foliage, and yet Brazil’s celebrities are said to love Coffee Lab as much as I did.

They serve great classic coffee as well as some rather experimental ones. The carrot cake is also on the must-try list.

8pm Dinner at Bolinha

In the same neighborhood — Pinheiros — known for cozy restaurants and cafes with a youthful energy, I found the restaurant for my first dinner in South America.

“When in Rome, do as the Romans do,” I thought, and was eager to try Brazil’s national dishes. One of the country’s most popular dishes, no matter if you are rich or poor, is rice with Feijoada. The name comes from “feijao” (Portuguese for “beans”). The food is a stew of beans with beef and pork, which used to be cooked in Portuguese colonies.

At restaurants, the dish is only available every Wednesday and Saturday, and Bolinha is one of places for a bowl of authentic and delicious Feijoada. Also, don’t forget to order a glass of typical Brazilian cocktail — Caipirinha!

 

Day 2 (Sunday)

10am Sunday’s fair (everywhere)

Across the city, Sunday morning (from 8am to 2pm) is the time for the weekly food fair (“Feira” in Portuguese) in Sao Paulo. Under big tents, vendors sell fresh fruits, meats and vegetables, as well as some handicrafts at very low prices.

Many Brazilians go to these fairs as part of their weekly routine. Besides buying some fresh tropical fruits like passion fruit, pineapple and water melons, we had our pastel breakfast at the fair.

Pastel is a type of Brazilian fast food, consisting of half-circle or rectangle-shaped thin crust pies with assorted filling, fried in vegetable oil. I tried one with chicken and Catupiry cream cheese. Other common fillings include ground meat, mozzarella, palm and small shrimp. The sweet options have chocolate and banana.

The crispy, brownish fried pie was delicious, especially eaten hot and accompanied by some fresh coconut juice.

11am Museu Paulista (Museu do Ipiranga)

The Museu Paulista, commonly known as Museu do Ipiranga in Sao Paulo focuses on the history of Brazil, from the time Emperor Pedro I proclaimed the Brazilian independence on the banks of Ipiranga brook in the Southeast region of the city of Sao Paulo.

It is also one of the most beautiful museums in Sao Paulo — an eclectic construction similar to the French Palace of Versailles with impressive and perfectly manicured gardens and fountains.

The museum contains a huge collection of furniture, documents and historically relevant artwork, especially relating to the era of the Brazilian Empire. One of the most famous works of art in the collection is the 1888 painting “Independence or Death” by Pedro Americo.

1pm Lunch at Figueira Rubaiyat

Rubaiyat group has restaurants in Brazil, Mexico, Spain, Argentina and Chile, serving Argentina meats and international cuisine.

You can have lunch or dinner under the huge branches of a majestic tree or in the lounge inside.

The restaurant serves contemporary and multicultural cuisine, based on high-quality ingredients like prawns of Santa Catarina, Argentinian hake, lobster from Pernambuco and peacock bass, pirarucus and tambaquis from Amazonia, Portuguese cod and meats from Argentina, Australia, Uruguay and also from Rubaiyat Ranch.

3pm Republica open market

After eating a heavy lunch, it’s time to take a walk and have a look around the city. I went to the Praça da República, a well-known park and public square in Sao Paulo.

On Sundays, there is an open air market here with many vendors selling art, clothing, jewelry and handicrafts. It’s an ideal place to buy some small Brazilian crystal souvenirs. Sometimes, there are live music shows, especially if the weather is good.

5pm Ibirapuera Park

Ibirapuera Park is to Sao Paulo what Central Park is to New York City — and who would visit the Big Apple without seeing its major green landmark?

A stroll through Ibirapuera Park should definitely be part of your itinerary.

This major urban park in Sao Paulo has a large area for leisure, jogging and walking, as well a vivid cultural scene with museums and a music hall.

6pm Posto de Acai

After walking the whole afternoon, it’s time for a refreshing snack. If you go to Brazil, Acai is on the must-try list. Acai berry is a fruit from Amazon, and the nut has plenty of energy and nutrition. Brazilians make fresh juice and smoothies from acai. The smoothies are usually mixed with fresh fruits, nuts and oatmeal.

Posto de Acai serves one of the best acai in Sao Paulo. There are outlets in the city center — one at the gas station of Ipiranga, and one at the Paraiso Metro station.

8pm Dinner at Famiglia Mancini

Brazil has a huge Italian community due to the shared Latin culture and immigration during the two World Wars. There are plenty of Italian restaurants, but few are as frequently recommended as Famiglia Mancini.

As the name indicates, the place was founded by the Mancini family, and look back at a long history. The whole vibe reminds you of old world Italy. Besides the buffet area where delicious salads and cold dishes are served, spaghetti and pizza are pretty tasty. If you are a fan of seafood, I definitely recommend the seafood spaghetti.

10pm Augusta street

Near the Italian restaurant, Augusta Street is well-known for its bars and night clubs. Take a walk, grab a drink at the place that most appeals to you and delve into Sao Paulo’s night life. There’s a reason why why the city is known across the world for its wild parties — but that’s something you will have to discover on your own.

Traveling Tips

If you have a little more than two days in Sao Paulo and are looking for some relaxation by the beach, Guaruja is the best destination.

The distance between Sao Paulo and Guaruja is 140 kilometers. Traffic jams are always heavy on Friday nights as it seems the whole city is leaving for some beach time fun and play. If you prefer a quiet beach, Praia do Eden will be the best choice, while Praia do Tombo is praised among surf fans, and Enseada has a long coastline with clean sand beaches perfect for a walk.

Ice-cold beer and fresh coconut juices are very popular drinks on Brazil’s beaches and widely available, while salty popcorn and peanuts are among locals’ favorite snacks. You can easily change in the public bathrooms along the beach. Umbrellas and sun chairs are available everywhere.

Language:

The official language is Portugese, but some English or Spanish will get you a long way.

Money:

The exchange rate between the Brazilian Real and the US dollar is about 4:1, the lowest it’s been in years — good news for foreign travelers.

Warning:

Although it’s generally safe for tourists, don’t bring large amounts of cash or wear luxury watches or accessories that could attract pickpockets.




 

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