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September 23, 2015

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Meandering through Italy’s forgotten region

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AMONG visitors to Italy, the landlocked region of Umbria is often overshadowed by its more well-known neighbor, Tuscany. This is unfortunate, since Umbria offers up a wide range of cultural delights all its own.

Known as the “green heart” of Italy, Umbria is one of the smallest regions in the country, as well as the only central region without a coastline. It also boasts fascinating hillside villages and a tranquil rural landscape draped with olive groves and vineyards.

What’s more, Umbria’s small population and relative obscurity make it an ideal place to relax, even during the height of tourist season.

During a recent trip, my Umbrian hosts spent two days driving me through the region’s hilly countryside and towns. Along the way, numerous stops were made to admire the vine-clad landscape and sample the local wines.

“Everyone who travels to Umbria is forced to slow down,” said Livio Rotini, my Umbrian friend.

This meditative pace seemed entirely appropriate.

Perugia

My own Umbrian adventure started from its capital, Perugia, which is home to such wonders as the Piazza IV Novembre, the Fontana Maggiore and the Palazzo dei Priori.

Founded by the Etruscan some 3,000 years ago, Perugia has a strong artistic tradition. The city achieved its greatest splendor during the 14th century, when it was home to painters Bernardino Pinturicchio and Pietro Vannucci (also known as Perugino), who would later teach the famous Renaissance master Raphael.

Perugino’s fresco paintings can be admired at Sala dell’Udienza in the Collegio del Cambio and the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria. These richly endowed artistic institutions also house masterpieces from Piero della Francesca, Gentile da Fabriano, Giovanni and Nicola Pisano.

Wandering through the narrow streets and along the walls at the edge of town, both Etruscan and Roman remains can be discovered and many layers of history are there to behold.

A major part of the city’s charm lies in its stone architecture, including the imposing Etruscan Arch (or the Arch of Augustus) built in the 3rd century BC, as well as the Fontana Maggiore, created by the Pisanos in the 1270s.

Perugia’s underground attractions, namely the remains of the city’s medieval neighborhood, are also a source of extreme fascination. What’s left of these ancient streets can still be found under the 16th-century Rocca Paolina fortress — although a system of modern escalators offers access to both the Piazza Italia and the parking area of the Piazza Partigiani.

The city’s time-honored culture can also be seen at University of Perugia, founded in 1308.

Today, Perugia is home to a seemingly never-ending stream of events, concerts and exhibitions. It is the 2015 Italian Capital of Culture, as well as a frontrunner (along with Lecce, Cagliari, Siena and Ravenna) for the title of 2019 European Capital of Culture.

The two-week-long Umbria Jazz Festival is held every July in Perugia. The festival is one of the most prestigious of its kind, having been held annually in the city since 1973.

Those planning to visit Perugia before November 8 should also not miss “Perception of the Future,” at the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria and the Civic Museum of Palazzo della Penna. This exhibition features 91 works of art from the collection of Giuseppe Panza and his wife Rosa Giovanna Magnifico. Between 1956 and 2010, the couple collected more than 2,500 works from prominent American and European artists.

Another exhibition worth checking out is “Umbrian Vertigo,” which runs through October 25 at Palazzo Baldeschi al Corso. This exhibition offers a bird’s-eye view of the region: visitors can admire Umbria and all its splendors through a series of antique prints and aerial photographs.

Finally, be sure to bring back some of Perugia’s famous chocolates. Sweets from the city’s famed confectionery brand Perugina are guaranteed to delight friends and family back home.

Cultural heritage and art

In Umbria, each town, church and piazza tells a story.

From the Umbrians to the Etruscans, the Romans to the Longobards, from Renaissance masterpieces to the masters of the 20th century, the region’s network of museums, cathedrals and palazzos reflect a shared historical memory and aesthetic tradition.

The quaint village of Assisi is set amid the picture-perfect Umbrian countryside. It radiates an old-world allure and its most noted feature, the breathtaking Basilica di San Francisco d’Assisi, is a place of pilgrimage for both Christians and art historians. Assisi is famed as the birthplace of Italy’s Catholic patron saint, Saint Francisco. The interior of the Upper Church is truly a sight to behold, with frescoes depicting the Life of Saint Francisco by Renaissance masters such as Giotto.

Umbria is dotted with numerous delightful medieval cities and charming hill-side towns. The medieval streets of Spoleto, situated at the head of a deep valley in east central Umbria, maintain a centuries-old atmosphere. Shops and cafes line the narrow streets, offering refreshment and traditional handicrafts.

The sense of history is palpable — but so is the buzz of new energy in Spoleto. The town is known for its annual Festival dei Due Mondi (“Festival of Two Worlds”). Held between June and July, the event dates back to 1958 and attracts thousands annually to the ancient town, which provides a unique historic backdrop to the festivities. Performances span the world of opera, classical and modern music, ballet, visual arts and cinema. The “two worlds” referenced in the event’s name eludes to the cultural worlds of America and Europe.

Another Roman-era town worth visiting is Spello. A stone’s throw from Assisi, Spello rarely makes it onto the itinerary’s of foreign tourists. For this reason, visitors often get the impression they are enjoying this tranquil town all to themselves.

I enjoyed “getting lost” in the town’s cobblestone streets and wandering in and out of its mysterious alleyways. Flowers decorate the stone houses and locals will often greet a visitor with a cheerful “Buongiorno.”

One pleasant discovery along Spello’s sleepy streets was a local artisan brewery named Birra Dieci Nove, where I stopped for a glass of refreshing Italian artisan beer to cap off a leisurely stroll.

Piazza Matteotti is the heart of Spello where the Baglioni Chapel of Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore boasts frescoes by Pinturicchio depicting the birth of Christ.

Umbria has a large number of museums and heritage sites relative to its size and population — 60 of its 92 municipalities contain at least one museum, archaeological site or monument open to the public, making for a total of over 150 points of interest.

Lovers of art and antiquities are truly spoilt for choice in this region. My last stop for art was Fondazione Palazzao Albizzini in Citta di Castello, home to the Burri Collection, named after abstract expressionist Alberto Burri. As the native of Citta di Castello in northern Umbria, the artist donated many of his works to his hometown and established the Fondazione Palazzao Albizzini in 1978. The palazzo features 129 works created between 1948 and 1989, ranging from the early “Sacks’’ collages to the later “Cracked’’ series. Burri himself also had a hand in picking the works on display.

Where to stay

The best way to experience the hospitality of the region is to stay in one of its enchanting castle hotels. Most include rooms with traditional Umbrian character and updated modern facilities.

Castello di Monterone (Strada Montevile, 3, Perugia), only 3 kilometers from the center of Perugia, was originally a military base along the road connecting Perugia and Rome during the 13th century. Today, it’s a place of genuine hospitality. Each of its 18 rooms has its own character. The restaurant Gradale offers Umbrian cuisine with fresh and genuine local flavors. Sitting at the terrace one can admire panoramic view of the green valley between Assisi and Perugia.

Le Tre Vaselle Resort (Via Garibaldi 48, Torgiano ), set in a 17th century building within the medieval walls of Torgiano, is owned by the Lungarotti family. Its rooms and suites are furnished in a somber yet elegant style. In a nod to the area’s wine culture, the resort spa is dedicated to vinotherapy. The cellar of Le Tre Vaselle is also stocked with many years of Lungarotti reserve.




 

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