Fantastic Frankfurt a city of poetry, elegance
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AS a travel destination, Frankfurt is unfairly overshadowed by other German cities like hip Berlin or enchanting Munich. It’s widely seen as a gateway to other major European destinations as its international airport is one of the busiest in Europe.
My second trip to the city changed my perspective thanks to a welcoming, delightful start at the newly opened Sofitel Frankfurt Opera, located opposite the city’s landmark opera house. A relaxing break at hotel bar Lili’s was especially delightful to wash away the fatigue of traveling. The name Lili’s comes from Lili Schönemann, the great love of German cultural icon Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832).
Frankfurt, the fifth-largest city in Germany, has been one of the country’s most important cities since medieval times. Goethe, one of Germany’s most famous poets, was born in Frankfurt, and following the hotel concierge’s advice, I began my city walk following the traces of the poet and the city’s cultural roots hidden among its hyper-modern skyscrapers. It was just a matter of knowing exactly where to start.
My exploration started from the Old Opera House, the stately cultural landmark with a history reaching back into the late 19th century. The city was largely destroyed by bombardments during World War II, including the Alte Oper. It took almost four decades before the beautiful ruin received a magnificent new façade and the interior that finally reopened in 1981.
Though the Oper Frankfurt built in 1951 presents musical theater of the highest caliber, the Old Opera House remains an important venue for concerts and events. Inside, Restaurant Opera is a gastronomic destination famous for its brunch.
The surrounding area is known for premier shopping, with luxury boutiques lining Goethestraße, Frankfurt’s equivalent to the Champs-Elysees. The nearby Freßgass is a pedestrian zone where numerous grocery stores and delicatessens took up residence after World War I. Countless cafes, bistros, bars and restaurants serve breakfast, happy-hour drinks and dinners beneath beautiful sycamore trees. Don’t miss the delicatessen Ebert’s Suppenstube, a family-run butcher shop since 1908 that offers top-notch sausages.
It was a Friday afternoon and the meeting point for city’s locals was surprisingly the square in front of the stock exchange building. There was a lively scene in the late afternoon as young and old came together to enjoy local wine, beer, sausages and cheese.
Passing the bustling market and the city’s famous banking district, I arrived at Goethe House and found a nostalgic feel in the air. The house is the birthplace of Goethe.
It’s also where he grew up with his sister, Cornelia. Sadly, the original building was destroyed by bombs, but it has been faithfully restored to its former style, decorated with period furniture and paintings.
The four-level building offers a vivid picture of Goethe’s youth: The furnishings of the kitchen and living room correspond to the lifestyle of a wealthy bourgeois family in the late Baroque era.
The neighborhood surrounding the Goethe House has a boho chic vibe where one can find exquisite bistros and cafes. After a few minutes’ walk, you can reach the famous Kleinmarkthalle, a 1,500-square-meter culinary paradise and a great place to experience authentic Frankfurt life. Stalls are set up there selling all manner of fresh foods, local specialties such as Frankfurt sausages and the famous “green sauce” made with seven different kinds of herbs.
To wrap up my walking tour, I ended up at the famous Römerberg where the city hall has been located since 1405. The Wertheim houses located around the square were built in the 1980s according to historical plans. A large-scale construction project has been underway in the area since 2010, with about 35 pre-war-style houses set to be fully restored by spring, 2018. If you’re thinking of buying one yourself, you’re already too late — they’ve all been sold out.
Where to stay:
The latest addition to the city’s hotel scene is Sofitel Frankfurt Opera, located in a prime location on Opernplatz with views of the Liesl-Christ-Anlage park and next to the city’s luxury shopping street and the landmark, the Old Opera House.
The hotel features 150 rooms and suites. The restaurant Schönemann, named after Gothe’s great love Lili Schönemann, offers fine French cuisine bristronomique with accents of regional cuisine.
At the intimate lounge bar Lili’s, guests can unwind in ease and comfort. Indeed, Lili’s is the place to go since opening in October. It has been fully occupied on weekend evenings with the city’s stylish locals.
Decked in warm colors, comfortable sofas and deep armchairs, Lili’s has a graceful interior and an intimate vibe.
French elegance and striking art objects are everywhere to be found here. Supper at the hotel restaurant offers culinary delights into the late evening.
Denis de Schrevel, the hotel’s general manger, said: “The relaxed vibe with French savoir-faire is what we would like to provide to hotel guests and locals as well. We don’t want people to see us as a hotel but a house to live in, to enjoy and to socialize.”
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