ISACS is the founder and CEO of EnjoyGourmet, a leading gourmet digital (www.enjoygourmet.com.cn) and print media company in China. He has authored over a dozen wine and food books including the awarded ISACS Guides and other gourmet books and is a wine consultant to governments, wine regions and organizations. He also hosts wine events for leading organizations and companies throughout China. Contact John via jcolumn@enjoygourmet.com.

Today’s iDEAL feature story looks at a fascinating tale set in the Song Dynasty (960-1279) of outlaws in the Chinese literary classic “Water Margin.”

The 108 fun-loving outlaws in the novel turn from desperados to heroes after protecting the kingdom from invading troops. This band of brothers loved feasting on meat and drinking alcohol. The heroes in the “Water Margin” favored copious amounts of baijiu (white liquor) with their beef dishes, but I have a better and more delicious idea.

The wide range of popular beef dishes in China range from delicate appetizers to savory and highly spiced soups, hotpots and dishes. So what style of red wine fits the bill? The red wines from Washington state.

There are 14 AVA wine regions in Washington state with additional regions poised to gain the AVA status. On a summer trip to the Evergreen State this year I learned that the state’s wine industry is developing at a rapid pace and they’re making great wines. When referring to wines, I rarely use the adjective “great.”

I’ve been fortunate to travel to hundreds of wine regions all over the globe and to tell the truth, most don’t make great wines. The problem may be climate, soil or a lack of investment or dedication to the very highest level of winemaking. Many drinkers outside the United States may be surprised to learn that some of the top AVAs in Washington state are making great wines. In fact, of all the wines reviewed by the authoritative publication Wine Spectator from 2009 to 2017, Washington state has the highest percentage of 90+ point wines. Better yet, the average cost of Washington state 90+ wines is US$46 compared to US$96 for French 90+ wines.

As an international wine judge, I’m well aware of the flaws and subjectivity associated with scoring wines, but the general acclaim and high scores of Washington state wines are well-deserved. This week I’ll introduce some red wines from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA that pair beautifully with some classic Chinese beef dishes.

Horse Heaven Hills AVA is situated between the Yakima Valley and Columbia River at the Oregon state boarder. This is a large region, boasting a quarter of the state’s vineyard acreage, with a warm dry climate. Dip irrigation is widely used. The most grown varieties for reds are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah and for whites Chardonnay and Riesling. This expansive region is home to Washington state’s largest single wine facility, the impressive Columbia Crest Winery. Grapes from Horse Heaven Hills are used in several of Washington state’s most famous wines including the two Wine Advocate (RP) 100-point Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 and 2003 wines. The award-winning Long Shadows Winery in Walla Walla Valley AVA uses grapes from The Benches vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills to make several of their super premium wines.

Horse Heaven Hills is also home to some of Washington states most important growers, like Mercer Canyons. This large family-owned farming enterprise was established in 1886 and produces 365 million tons of fresh produce including high-quality grapes. Typical to several Washington state regions yet atypical to most wine regions around the world, grapes for winemaking are just one of many crops cultivated. In the Old World, grape and olives are ancient partners, and many other wine regions may commercially produce other agriculture products but few possess the range and quality fresh crops of Washington state regions. This also means that many Washington state wine regions have ample space to expand production.

The innate balance and freshness of most Washington state wines makes them excellent partners to Chinese cuisine. As the snowfall has already beset our city and chilly temperatures beg for body-warming dishes, I’ll introduce two winter beef dishes that pair beautifully with Heaven Horse Hills wines.

Classic soups and hotpots

Beef noodle soup is a Chinese dish made of stewed or braised beef, beef broth, vegetables and Chinese noodles. The broth may be clear or dark, and Chinese pickles or scallions are often added. Popular throughout East Asia, beef noodle soup was first created by the Hui people, a Chinese Muslim ethnic group, during the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) of China. Modern variations may include thin or thick noodles with beef shank, slices, tendons and tripe. Though the dish originated in inland China, the version in Taiwan island is arguably the most popular. My pick for a wine partner would be a Merlot from Heaven Horse Hills as the ripe fruitiness, soft tannins and good acidity in the wines embellishes the savory flavors of the beef while also cleansing the palate.

In China, winter without the delights of hotpots is unthinkable. Like all styles of Chinese hotpots, Chaoshan hotpot is much more than a dish. It’s an exhilarating communal culinary experience that combines some of the region’s most prized ingredients. First and foremost, there is beef. The soup stock is made from beef bone, innards and a secret local sauce. Assorted thin slices of beef from the entire anatomy of the cow are cooked in the pot as are the famous beef meatballs. Instead of using a mincing machine to make the meatballs, cooks use two steel rods to plummet chunks of beef until they become a paste. Leaf vegetables, mushrooms and other local ingredients may also be boiled in the pot. Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon wines are excellent wines to pair with Chaoshan hotpots as the generous fruit complements the complex flavors of the hotpot while the structured tannins breakdown and offset the richness of the beef and innards.

Where to buy in Shanghai

Varieties: The principal varieties in Horse Heaven Hills are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah for reds, and Chardonnay and Riesling for whites.

Key term: AVA is the acronym for American Viticultural Area, a designated wine grape growing area in the USA.