Sicily’s spectacular wines burst with fruity flavor
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PROPER wine is made only from grapes. So why can we smell and taste so many different fruit and other flavors in wine? This week’s iDeal section looks at the role of fruits in Chinese cooking, so I thought it apropos to look at the role of fruit in wine.
Let’s dismiss wines made from fruits other than noble grapes. Often called fruit wines the best examples of these simple cloy beverages are at best only drinkable. Real wine use the Vitis Vinifera species of grapes and the magic really starts when the grape juice undergoes fermentation. Yeasts eat the natural sugars of grapes during fermentation and the by-products are alcohol, carbon dioxide and several hundred aromatic esters. Each specific ester has a specific aromatic profile, so when you smell apples in a white wine it’s because that same or similar aromatic ester found in apples is in the fermented grape juice. That may explain the complex aromatics, but why do white wines often taste like apples, pears, citrus fruits, peaches and other flavors while many red wines have red and black fruit flavors?
Technically our mouths only sense sweetness, sourness, bitterness, saltiness, astringency and umami. The secret of complex fruit flavors in wines is related to the volatility of alcohol and the connection and interaction between our mouths and noses. When we drink wine, the heat and saliva in our mouths help evaporate part of the wine and these sensations reach and interact with our nasal passages sending fruit and other flavor sensations to our brain. So it’s not merely an illusion, you are actually tasting many different fruit and other flavors in wine.
There are numerous wine regions around the world that make wonderfully fruity wines. Napa Valley whites and reds are abundantly fruity and big Ausi whites and reds can be exceptionally fruity. Practically every climate with an abundance of sunshine can make fruity wines. Finally I decided on a very special wine producing island that’s intimately tied to the sun. Welcome to beautiful Sicily, home to some of the world’s best fruity wines.
Homer’s epic work, “The Odyssey,” brought the world’s attention to Sicilian wine. Since ancient times the wines of Sicily have alternately been highly regarded and disparaged. For most the 20th century, the ripe grapes of Sicily were consumed locally or sold in bulk to provide sugar and alcohol to wines made in the more northerly wine regions of Europe. Sicilian wines themselves were considered overripe, too high in alcohol and lacking in elegance.
The problem, however, was never the grapes themselves. The real culprit was excessive heat and lack of modern transportation and winemaking equipment. Throughout the winemaking process the heat and exposure to oxygen would start rotting the grapes and result in wines that were oxidized and lacked freshness and style. Now with investment in new technology and modern winemaking, Sicilian wines are some of the most exciting and affordable Italian wines. They are also wonderfully fruity.
The sheer diversity of wine regions and styles in Sicily is astounding. This shouldn’t be surprising because in addition to its long history Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea with an area of 25,706 square kilometers and has a population of 5.2 million. There are countless different terriors and a diversity of native grapes. Some of the best include the Nero d’Avola, Nerello and Mascalese grapes that makes deeply colored, robust red wines and the Inzolia, Grillo, Catarrato and Ansonica grapes that make a range of white wines from fresh and light to more substantial.
In addition to native varieties there are a host of non-native Italian and international varieties that Sicilian winemakers are using to make award-winning wines. These include Trebbiano, Muscat and Chardonnay white varieties and Sangiovese, Barbera, Syrah and Merlot red wine grapes. Some of the best producers of Sicilian native and non-native varietal wines that you can find in Shanghai are Planeta, Donnafugatta, Firriato and Settesoli.
The fabled Mount Etna Volcano is located along the east coast of Sicily. Fine wines have been made in the shadow of Europe’s tallest active volcano for thousands of years; but only recently have they received world attention. The picturesque sloping valleys below Mount Etna have fertile volcanic soil and plentiful sun that nurture numerous vines and olive trees.
Traditionally, the wines of Mount Etna were overly rough and rustic for international palates, but as in other parts of Sicily the use of modern winemaking techniques and equipment have mitigated the negative influence of the ravaging heat and scorching sun while emphasizing the beautiful ripe and fresh fruit flavors. Good Mount Etna producers with wines in Shanghai include Cantina Patria, Benanti Winery and Tenuta Terre.
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