Incredible wines at affordable prices
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New era of smart wine purchasing austerity policies in the EU, anti-graft and anti-extravagance programs here in China and belt-tightening measures elsewhere; it seems everyone is turning to frugality in the post financial crisis world.
Conspicuous consumption is out and smart shopping is the new vogue. Bye-bye Bentley, so long Rolex and later Lafite. but does this mean we have to give up fine wines? Absolutely not! In this week’s column I recommend some very good yet eminently affordable wines available in Shanghai. Before doing so let’s take a look at what makes wines expensive.
There are good reasons why certain wines cost more than others. Making a good or even great wine necessitates superior ingredients, high technology and time. All these add to the cost of a wine. The ingredients are of course grapes that depending on the region, vineyard, cultivation and harvest techniques may range in cost from US$800 per ton to over US$15,000 per ton. Better-situated vineyards with lower yields result in superior wines that justifiably cost more.
Added cost
Many top wines must be aged for a period of time, sometimes in oak and stainless steel vats and also in the bottle prior to release. Time adds to the cost as do the barrels and vats. The best red wines are aged in oak barrels that may cost as much as 1,000 euros (US$1,120). Better quality bottles, closures (i.e. high quality cork) and packaging also push costs higher. Finally, modern winemakers are highly skilled technicians and artists that are well compensated. All of the aforementioned reasons are why some wines cost more than others.
Added cost factors that are more dubious are marketing, scarcity and ratings. Large marketing campaigns have no impact on a wine’s quality and likewise a rare wine is not necessarily better than an easy to find wine.
Very high ratings by famous critics and well-known publications also play a role in jacking up the price of a wine. Furthermore, the objectivity, impartiality and even accuracy of these ratings is often questioned.
Smart wine buyers avoid heavily marketed, ridiculously scarce and over-hyped wines and instead look for lesser known wines from emerging wine regions.
Languedoc and Aragon
Two of my favorite regions when looking for affordable high-quality wines are Languedoc in southern France and Aragon in northern Spain.
The region of Languedoc is no newcomer to wine making. In the fifth century BC, long before the more famous wines regions of Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux cultivated vines, the Languedoc and neighboring Provence regions had thriving wine industries. But for most of the 20th century Languedoc had a reputation for making undistinguished cheap wines for the masses.
The past three decades have witnessed a dramatic increase in high quality wine production. Today the region sports the widest variety of grapes in France ranging from classic Mediterranean red varietals like Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvedre to popular international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Popular white varietals are Chardonnay, Viognier, Grenache Blanc and a wide range of others.
If you’re a bubble lover then I suggest the Champagne-method sparklers from Antech, a fifth generation winery run entirely by women who make exceptional sparkling wines. I’ve long been a fan of Languedoc wines but recently I’ve also fallen in love with the wines of Aragon.
The wines of Aragon are some of the wine world’s best-kept secrets. Argon is a region that’s known and appreciated mostly by locals and dedicated Spanish wine lovers. Wines have been made in this region since the 3rd century and today the region has four important DOs (destinations of origin) named Calatayud, Carinena, Somontano and Campo de Borja. All make good wines that won’t bust your budget.
Perhaps the best-known wines are the reds that are made from the Spanish Carinera and Garnacha varieties. You’ll also find international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir as well as Spain’s most famous grape Tempranillo, but for me it’s the concentrated and rustic Carinera and Garnacha reds that are most intriguing.
However, I recently tasted an unusual Petit Verdot and Tannat blend made by Chapillon that’s named Cuvee Harmony that wowed me with its deep, rich character. This is a wine that out performs many Spanish reds that cost twice as much.
Another distinguished style of wine from Aragon is CAVA rosado. These Champagne-method rose wines are some of the most affordable, high-quality sparklers found anywhere. Deeper colored and more tannic than French style rose sparkling wines, these CAVAs are fine companions for everything from cooked seafood to red meats.
One highly recommended rosado is the 100 percent Garnacha Reyes de Aragon Reserva Brut made by Bodegas Langa. The wine offers expressive aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry and strawberry with a nice acidic and tannic backbone. This is an ideal wine to serve when you’re enjoying a potpourri of Chinese dishes.
Region & Style at a glance
Varieties:
There are 5 authorized varieties for CAVA rosado wines: Pinot Noir, Monastrell, Garnacha, Malvasia and Trepat.
Key Term:
Rosado — the Spanish equivalent for rosé, a pink wine that may be still or sparkling. Aragon — located in northern Spain, the region is a major producer of Garnacha wines including CAVA sparkling wines made with the red varietal.
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