Shanghai evenings are beginning to exhibit a refreshing chill and this means only one thing: the time for hearty eating and drinking is fast approaching. As the days get shorter and colder one favorite repast is the Chinese hotpot meal.

To this writer, nothing compares to the king of hotpots, mala. I have long partaken and written about the sublime experience of spicy mala hotpots with robust fruity, lightly oaked wines and off-sweet wines. Another style of hotpot that pairs beautifully with wines is the Chaoshan style hotpot. More laid-back and traditional, the Chaoshan region in Guangdong hasn’t experienced the same level of exponential growth as other regions in Guangdong like Shenzhen and Guangzhou. However, the region boasts a long and glorious history and locals are fiercely proud and protective of their cultural treasures. The local dialect is one of the oldest in China and Chaoshan’s opera, tea ceremony and of course cuisine are renowned throughout China as well as in many parts of Southeast Asia where a diaspora of Chaoshan people have settled.

Chaoshan gourmet treasures include fresh, often raw seafood served with piquant sauces, braised goose and beef hotpot. The later is the focus of this week’s column. Like all styles of Chinese hotpots, Chaoshan hotpot is much more than a dish; it’s a communal culinary experience that combines some of the region’s most prized ingredients. First and foremost there is beef. The soup stock is made from beef bone, innards and a local sauce and while not as spicy, pungent and greasy as mala soup, it’s still quite flavorful and filling. Assorted thin slices of beef from the entire cow are cooked in the pot as are the famous beef meatballs. Instead of using a mincing machine to make the meatballs, cooks use two steel rods to pummel chunks of beef until it becomes a paste. In this way, the scrumptious beef balls retain a pleasing al-dente texture. Leafy vegetables, mushrooms and other ingredients may also be boiled in the pot.

Locals commonly enjoy beer or baijiu (white liquor) with their hotpots. I proffer that Chaoshan hotpot is best with a medium body, balanced red wine served slightly chilled. A chilled red will offset the relatively high temperature of the boiled morsels while the fruitiness of the wine will nicely embellish the flavors of the pot. So what style of red wine fits the bill? For the perfect answer we must look to the Southern Rhone.

Southern Rhone Valley wines aren’t as aristocratic as the Syrah dominated wines of the Northern Rhone, but in many ways they can be every bit as good. The most famous Southern Rhone wine is the Chateauneuf du Pape, a wine on par with the greatest of the world. Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Cotes du Rhone are also well known quality red wines of the region. The aforementioned may be the best known, but in this week’s column I’ll focus on two lesser-known regions in the Southern Rhone. Hotpot is meant to be a relaxed and good value meal so the wines we choose should likewise be carefree, fun and affordable.

Trendy Ventoux region

Though according to archeological evidence wines have been made here since AD 30, the Ventoux region in southeastern Rhone didn’t receive an official appellation designation until 1973. Traditionally called Cotes du Ventoux, this large and formerly nondescript wine region has morphed into one of the trendiest French production areas making enchanting and affordable wines. Mass produced, bad wines still exist but increasingly progressive young producers are exploiting the fortuitous natural environment to make wines of considerable note.

Chateau Pesquie is one of the producers leading the way. This family run estate with a long history has become one of Ventoux’s best producers with a range of delightful varietal and blend wines that exhibit the best characteristics of the region. In red wines this means plenty of black and red fruit, spice and mouth cleansing freshness. Two Chateau Pesuie wines that pair wonderfully with Chaoshan hotpot are the La Paradou Grenache, a delightfully lively expression of the Granache variety, and the more weighty Les Terrasses that comprises Grenache and Syrah.

Other good Ventoux producers with wines in Shanghai include Paul Jaboulet Aine, Delas Freres and La Vieille Ferme.

Costieres de Nimes

You may have never heard of the Costieres di Nimes sub region of the Southern Rhone, but you should have. There are two very good reasons why. First they make some of France’s best value, high quality wines and secondly they are masterful partners to meat-heavy hotpots.

A small amount of Costieres di Nimes whites and rose wines are made but red wines predominate. The red wines tend to be elegant, fresh and balanced with lots of red fruits and gentle tannins. These are just the qualities suitable for Chaoshan hotpots as the wine preserves and augments the flavors of the beef and other ingredients. The pleasant acidity and light tannins also facilitate digestion.

There are a growing number of good Costieres di Nimes producers but my favorite is Chateau Mourgues de Gres. Best of all their acclaimed wines remain remarkably inexpensive and they’re available in Shanghai.

Capitelles des Mourgues and Terre dr Feu are their top two reds but I find these wines a little too serious and structured for hotpots. The wines of the estate to accompany Chaoshan hotpot are the fresh and fruity Les Galets Rouges, a Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Marselan and Carignan blend and the slightly more robust and lengthy Terre d’Argence, a Syrah, Carignan and old vine Grenache blend. Both wines will surely enhance your Chaoshan hotpot experience.

Where to buy in Shanghai

Fancy Cellar (622 Shunchang Rd, 6047-8619)

Chateau Pesquie La Paradou Grenache

Chateau Pesquie Les Terrasses

Anteroon (88A Wuyuan Rd, 137-6116-1565)

Chateau Mourgues de Gres Les Galets Rouge

Chateau Mourgues de Gres Terre d'Argence

Yesmywine.com

Perrin et Fils La Vieille Ferme

Region & Style at a glance

Varieties:

The Southern Rhone is known for blends of Mediterranean varieties. In red wines the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault are most important with a host of other grapes playing supporting roles.

Key Term:

Ventoux and Costieres de Nimes are two up-and-coming AC subregions of the Southern Rhone making very affordable quality wines.