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Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Ignored for centuries, matcha makes a comeback

By Xu Wenwen | 00:01 UTC+8 May 25, 2017 | Print Edition

WITH its fresh, newly picked taste, matcha at this time of year is the perfect refreshing drink, and also an ingredient in desserts, cookies and ice cream.

Matcha is made from the leaves of tea bushes that grow in shade, with only the finest buds hand-picked. The ingredient originated in China during the Sui Dynasty (AD 581-618) and was taken to Japan in 1191 by a Japanese monk.

While it became an ordinary drink and food ingredient in Japan, few people in China drank it in the past centuries.

Only when Japanese matcha was introduced into China did tea lovers start to enjoy its unique taste.

Today, matcha drinks tend to be more Western-inspired, such as matcha latte, matcha hot chocolate and matcha milk. And drinking matcha tea is less popular in China than in Japan.

But more and more matcha dessert stores are opening here. Because of their elegant color and mellow taste, and often coming in low-calorie options, matcha desserts are especially popular with women.

“Previously, we exported matcha powder to Europe, the US and Japan, but recently our customers are mainly from Chinese coastal cities,” said Dong Junjie, a tea expert at the Hangzhou Ju Fang Yong Holding Company that produces high-end tea.

“Years ago, our clients purchased matcha to make drinks, but nowadays most of our products are supplied to restaurants, cafes and dessert stores.”

Today, Shanghai Daily explores several matcha desserts stores which opened in the past couple of years in Hangzhou.

Cha Duo You

It features a menu of wide range: from matcha ice cream and daifuku to matcha liquor and fondue.

Daifuku is a Japanese confection consisting of a small round mochi (glutinous rice cake) stuffed with sweet filling. Cha Duo You provides red bean paste filling and matcha filling.

The matcha fondue, just like chocolate fondue, tastes refreshing and is, not surprisingly, welcomed by Chinese, who are used to hot tea.

But matcha foods apart, the store also serves yokan, a thick, jellied dessert made of red bean paste, agar, and sugar. In the store yokens are of ball shapes, squared, or molded and served in small glasses.

Those semi-transparent desserts all feature preserved flowers inside and definitely deserve some photo sharing. They taste like jelly but are less sweet, and the salty hidden petals are edible.

 

Address: 48-2 Longyou Rd

Tel: 133-3611-9129

Breaker Matcha

Breaker is one of the first matcha-themed dessert shops in Hangzhou and produces quality matcha cakes and drinks.

Its signature dessert is a simple matcha cake with layers of creamy matcha fudge. Although rich in matcha, the cake is neither overly bitter nor too rich and is popular for its light and moist taste.

The matcha green tea ice cream is heavily accented and still light in flavor, while the tropical mango and berry ice cream is more of a frozen yogurt with the texture and taste of a smoothie.

A chocolate-and-matcha tiramisu is a perfect balance of the bitterness and sweetness. And the most unusual flavor on the menu is wasabi and nori — worth a try if you are up for some adventure.

 

Address: 1/F, 2028 Jiangling Rd

Tel: (0571) 2835-0800

Ting Xi Japanese Dessert

At Tingxi a Japanese chef instructs the production of all desserts.

“But we don’t just make replicas,” said owner Zhang Run. “We adapt the taste for locals, like using less sugar, and adding more drinks on the menu.”

Yoken is its signature for the attractive appearance. For those who want to taste many things at once, try Chiyo Matcha that combines five things: ice cream, small rice balls, red bean paste, steamed matcha jelly, and raw matcha jelly.

But matcha tea is the traditional Chinese style, brewed as how ancient people in the Song Dynasty (960-1279) did. It gives matcha tea a special light green foam, which resembles cappuccino, but contains no cream.

 

• Powerlong branch

Address: 3/F, 3867 Binsheng Rd

Tel: 136-7587-6669

 

• Paradise Walk branch

Address: 3/F, 560 Jinsha Ave

Tel: (0571) 8725-5596

Chu Yi Matcha

Uji Matcha, known for its smooth texture and deep vibrant flavor, is produced from Gyokuro grown in the Uji region of Kyoto. Chu Yi claims it purchases Uji Matcha directly from a 150-year-old matcha store in Kyoto and has an authorization certificate hanging on the wall.

Its decor is of strong Japanese style, given to ukiyoe paintings, tatami seats, as well as bamboo-and-wood furniture.

Signature dishes include crepe cake, tiramisu, ice cream, and roll cake — with a matcha taste, of course.

Dairy lovers should try crepe cake boasting 18 layers of cream, and tiramisu that is served in wooden box and contains rich cream and light rum.

Ice cream is yet recommended for those who prefer less sugar as it tastes slightly bitter is not greasy at all. One can also try drinks coupled with ice cream.

 

Address: 293 Wulin Rd

Tel: (0571) 8691-1317

Wu Xie Japanese Dessert

One of the first batch of matcha dessert stores on China’s mainland, Wu Xie was established four years ago by Zang Bei, a huge fan of tea and the tea ceremony.

He started the brand in Nanjing and last year launched the branch in Hangzhou, which even now still has long queues in the afternoon.

Zang said he visited numerous stores in the Uji area to learn the technique, and he only uses supplies imported from Uji.

Its best seller is no doubt matcha ice cream.

“We sell thousands of ice creams per day,” said Zang. And the more luxurious version is matcha ice cream with gold foil. The foil has no taste and is very soft, but it does ease one’s mood, and color the lips.

 

• Paradise Walk branch

Address: 4/F, 560 Jinsha Ave

Tel: (0571) 8526-7729

 

• Hubin In77 branch

Address: B1/F, C Zone, 7 Dongpo Rd

Tel: 189-1231-3971

Hangzhou


 

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