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Exhibit brings to life 15th-century travel diary
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BELIEVE it or not, one of the most eye-opening accounts of life in Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) China comes not from a local source, but a shipwrecked Korean named Choe Bu.
Choe was a Korean official who lived during the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). After he set sail for mainland Korean with a crew of 43 in 1488, his ship was blown off course during a violent storm that lasted 14 days. Choe and his crew eventually drifted towards China, where they ran aground along the coast of Zhejiang Province.
Once ashore, they started a 135-day journey across China. Along the way back to Korea, Choe and his party traveled up the Grand Canal to Beijing, visiting numerous cities along.
Choe’s diary account of his travels became widely printed in the 16th century in Korea. For modern historians, this fascinating document offers a unique perspective on regional differences and cultures in 15th-century China.
A new exhibition based on Choe’s account is now underway at Zhejiang Museum’s Wulin Pavilion. The show includes some 300 artifacts from museums from both South Korea and China, including many from places in the Yangtze River Delta visited by Choe. Much like the Korean official’s diary, these items offer a fascinating glimpse into Joseon-era Korea and differences between northern and southern China.
The Joseon Dynasty was heavily influenced by traditional Chinese culture. Korean leaders often dispatched ambassadors to the country to study Confucianism and political systems in China, and established friendly bonds with the Ming court.
Among the items on display are books from Korean museums written in both Chinese and Korean. Many of these are illustrated with scenes of people and offer details about Chinese society, social classes, politics, geography and literature.
Korean officials’ ritual costumes shared similarities with those worn by their counterparts in the Ming Dynasty, which, as the exhibits show, were strictly divided according to rank. Crane and tiger-patterned embroidery were worn by military and civil officers respectively, and belts were adorned with gold, silver and rhino horn to further signify one’s standing in officialdom.
The highlight here, of course, is Choe’s diary itself, entitled “Geumnam Pyohaerok,” which became famous after King Seongjong, the ninth emperor of Joseon Dynasty, requested him to submit a written account of his experiences to the throne.
Although it is unclear whether it was printed immediately after it was written, it is known that Choe’s grandson, Yu Huichun, had it printed in Korea in 1569. The diary was also read in Japan during the 16th century, when it was reprinted several times.
Another part of the exhibition explores Choe’s travel route in China, especially along the Yangtze River Delta.
Documenting everything
Choe and the crew were suspected of being invaders when they landed in Zhejiang. After proving the innocence of their intentions to local officials, they were freed and allowed to embark on the journey home.
After spending a few days in today’s Ningbo, they then reached Hangzhou. Thereafter, they traveled on the Grand Canal towards Beijing. Choe and his crew are believed to be the first group of Koreans to travel the entirety of the canal.
Choe’s diary recorded details of the sophisticated defense systems in Zhejiang. At the time, Japanese pirates plagued coastal areas of eastern China. To defend against these invaders, the central government created defenses and stationed military personnel along the coast lines.
Historical records from Linhai Museum show the original designs of these defenses, while documents collected in Zhejiang Museum illustrate ancient military officials’ research into the pirates themselves.
In addition to military matters, Choe also wrote about the water infrastructures of Zhejiang, which frequently flooded during rainy seasons. He also recorded the various methods of transport used during his journey. His description of traditional Chinese palanquins mirrors displayed ceramic figurines excavated from Jiaxing in northern Zhejiang Province. The palanquin was a common conveyance in ancient China and was carried on the shoulders of four men.
Some of the ancient roads and bridges Choe and his crew traveled over still exist today. These include the Xixi Path in Fenghua County and Gao Stone Bridge in Ningbo. Most of the buildings mentioned in his account though eventually fell into ruin, although their existences were corroborated by local historical records.
Choe spent seven days touring Hangzhou. He described that the city was densely dotted with splendid buildings, packed with people, ablaze with vibrant flowers and prospering with bustling markets.
In addition, he carefully noted the costumes, accessories, religious practices, currency, and literatus in different cities. Artifacts now on display attest to the veracity of Choe’s observations. These include dazzling gold bracelets, hairpins and necklaces from Jiangyin Museum in Jiangsu Province.
The Chinese admiration for literature and art also left a deep impression on Choe. He found that almost every city boasted an abundance of calligraphic masterpieces from previous literatus. He also had many encounters with poets and painters. In some cases, they joined Choe to go sightseeing or write verses together. These experiences were written down in local records, which are also on display in the museum.
In addition to Choe’s travels, the exhibition also focuses on cultural and artistic exchanges between the two different countries. The Joseon and Ming dynasties communicated with each other frequently and built deep bonds during the 15th century.
Date: Through February 2, closed on Mondays
Venue: Zone E, West Lake Culture Square, 581 Zhongshan Rd N.
Admission: Free
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