From the farm to the plate
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Program Code: 0909346130605018
Christoph Trocker loves fresh food - eating it and cooking it. Perhaps it was destiny as Executive Sous Chef at Hyatt on the Bund grew up on a farm in Krimml, inside a national park in Salzburg in the Austrian Alps.
His family grew herbs, vegetables and fruit trees, thanks to a nice climate and rich soil. They also raised chickens, rabbits and deer.
"From my early childhood, I used to pick fresh ingredients from the farm and kill the chickens with my grandma, who's a talented chef in her own right," he recalls. "I gradually learned the close connection between food produce and the final dish."
Now the 33-year-old Austrian is bringing this farm fresh philosophy to VUE Restaurant's menu. He considers his profession to be much more than just cooking.
"For me, a career as a chef exceeds its literal meaning, it's more about being an artist and a trainer," says Trocker, who has also worked for various top hotel chains such as the Hilton and Jumeirah.
Although he has difficulty summarizing his personal culinary style into one sentence, he admits he's addicted to using fresh herbs. Lavender, thyme and lemon mint are his favorites.
"Fresh herbs distinguish themselves with their fragrances, but their natural flavors are difficult to replicate," he says.
Herbs are considered his personal signature and VUE Restaurant's menu features many European dishes with herbs. Some creations are even herb inspired such as lime and thyme sorbet with butter milk.
Besides choosing fresh, quality herbs, culinary techniques play an important role.
"For each herb, there's a specific way of cooking to highlight its flavor, texture and aroma," Trocker says.
Herbs with tougher leaves such as thyme and rosemary require long cooking time, and heating them with oil helps release their strong flavor and aroma.
Herbs with tender leaves, represented by parsley and chervil, are best chopped and sprinkled over a dish as a finishing touch. They are best with cold starters.
Trocker says he has been influenced by Eckart Witzigamn, an Austrian who became the first German-speaking chef to earn three Michelin stars.
"Besides knowing how to make best use of herbs, Witzigamn's good at exploring and utilizing the medicinal value of herbs, which is an added benefit for diners," Trocker says.
Trocker laments the fact that there's not enough space for him to plant herbs in Shanghai.
At VUE Restaurant, all the vegetables and greens are chosen locally to ensure freshness while various meats are imported to guarantee quality. He says he loves to show customers raw food ingredients at a live station before cooking.
Doing so allows diners to see, smell and touch the produce before it is cooked.
"Then, I will show the customers how a professional chef gives quality produce more possibilities in terms of the taste," Trocker adds.
He says he has an open attitude toward foreign cuisines, integrating other styles into his own cooking.
When he starts working in a new city, he loves embedding the old menu with some Austrian touches. For example, VUE Restaurant has braised wagyu beef flank with schupfnudeln.
"Schupfnudeln is an Austrian noodle that is thick, made with potato and flour," Trocker says.
At the same time, he's passionate about adding local ingredients and visiting wet markets to learn about unfamiliar and exotic foods by talking to locals.
He said working as a hotel chef allows him to work abroad and widen his understanding of food.
Now, he's created some new flavors based on Chinese ingredients. He has added Sichuan pepper to mayonnaise and flavored beef with Chinese five-spice powder (a mixture of star anise, cloves, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper and fennel seed).
"It's not really fusion," he says.
"It's adding new dimensions to food. The authenticity of the taste is still respected."
Christoph Trocker
Executive Sous Chef at Hyatt on the Bund, from Austria
Q: Is there a dish you will remember until you die?
A: I once tasted a tiramisu at an Italian restaurant in Dubai. It's freshly made of hot espresso and cold mascarpone cheese. The hot coffee alternated with cold creamy cheese, bringing a nice sense of temperature contrast.
Q: What's the best advice you have received?
A: One of my former executive chefs told me that as a chef, you should firmly believe "one for all, all for one," the team spirit.
Q: Recommend a restaurant you love in Shanghai and why.
A: Hai Di Lao is a great place to go for a friendly hotpot environment. If I have overseas friend visiting, I like to take them there since the outstanding service amazes them and they seem to always endorse my suggestion with a compliment.
Q: What are your other hobbies?
A: If I have time to travel, skiing will be on top of my list. The speed is exhilarating and the views are amazing.
Q: If you were not a chef, what would you do?
A: For sure a job related to food. Maybe I will grow my own garden or become an epicurean.
VUE Restaurant's signature dish: Tiger prawns with pastis, tomato, zucchini, saffron and cream
Ingredients: Tiger prawns 5pc; butter 20g; shallots (chopped) 10g; salt and pepper 1g; pastis 30ml; white wine 30ml; tomato concasse 30g; zucchini 30g; bell pepper (red/green/yellow) 50g; chive 1g; fish veloute 50g; saffron 1g
Steps:
1. Heat the pan and melt butter.
2. Add bell pepper and diced zucchini, gently cook.
3. Add the prawns to the pan.
4. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Add chopped shallots and garlic.
6. Turn over the prawns.
7. Add white wine and reduce gently.
8. Add pastis and flambé it.
9. Add volute and saffron and bring it to boil.
10. Keep turning over the prawns until cooked and arrange on the plate.
11. Add tomato concasse and butter and reduce the sauce.
12. Place the sauce on top of the prawns and garnish with chopped chives.
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