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World’s top designers rock London catwalk
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THE English capital was filled with edgy new looks, inspired throwbacks and touching tributes during the city’s recent Fashion Week. If you couldn’t take part in this glamorous gathering, here’s a rundown of the event’s brightest shows, as well as a glimpse at hot new collections from the couture world’s biggest names.
Versace’s Versus
Donatella Versace brought her brand’s rock ‘n’ roll sensibility to London Fashion Week, closing out Saturday’s shows with an ear-splitting, strobe light-filled runway show that enthralled her youthful audience.
She chose a cavernous space to present her latest Versus designs, which was dominated by all things black. Menswear and womenswear was mixed together, giving the show an androgynous feel.
Model of the moment Gigi Hadid eventually opened the show, followed by male models who came out looking angry and disheveled. There were a few denim outfits for men that lightened the mood, and some military-style tunics for women.
The word VERSUS was emblazoned on choker neckbands, outfits — even on the thongs that were intentionally displayed. A nifty black and white jumpsuit for men had the brand’s name displayed multiple times, and on the accompanying handbag as well.
Royalty and revolution
The London-based Turkish designer Bora Aksu dedicated his show to Princess Sophia Duleep Singh, a prominent advocate for women’s rights in Britain during the suffragette movement. He said she showed a “beguiling combination of royalty and revolutionary fervor.”
The collection played heavily on lilacs, blues and powdery pinks. Some of the outfits offered playful variations on Victorian themes, complete with severe, almost masculine hats, while others were completely contemporary.
The 1960s were present also, with some models braiding blue flowers into their hair and several outfits offering variation on black and white Op Art themes.
A full-length pink and pale blue dress was particularly striking, seeming to bridge several eras of fashion history in a soft, subtle vision. At its best, the show had an ethereal quality.
Tribute to sculptor
No fashion house pays as much attention to English heritage as Burberry, which paid homage to the late English sculptor Henry Moore with its autumn and winter collection.
The catwalk space was adorned with some of Moore’s sculptures and guests were treated to a display of his drawings before the show.
Bailey said he sought to make the clothes three-dimensional and textured much like Moore’s sculptures.
He told The Associated Press he used the color palette that Moore often wore when he worked and pointed proudly to one of Moore’s striped work aprons on display behind glass at the Burberry Makers House in London’s Soho neighborhood.
“Henry Moore has been a huge influence on me my whole life,” Bailey said of the sculptor known for his monumental works.
‘Tougher femininity’
One of London’s favorite designers, Christopher Kane, mixed new technology with tried-and-true craftsmanship to produce a stellar show Monday at the Tate Britain museum.
Kane used space-age techniques, including holographic foiled lace and iridescent full-print knits, along with a traditional weaving process from the early days of mechanization. Most striking was the use of a Gainsborough silk reworking of a French damask from the 18th century that was styled into very contemporary dresses.
Kane’s approach gave the outfits an old-meets-new mystique, and the use of Asian motifs, including billowing silk prints, expanded his range. Triangular shapes appeared on the front of many dresses and Kane made good use of the pink floral theme that has been popular in shows this year.
“We wanted to express a tougher femininity this season,” said Kane. “(I was) looking at abstract shapes, hard angles, and sharp jags” inspired in part by female factory workers.
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