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April 30, 2017

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Traditional, classic moments at extravagant Bridal Fashion Week

MONIQUE Lhuillier

She had it all in stretch satin that hugged the body and full tulle skirts with ruffles and folds that fluttered down her runway in a rehearsal room at Carnegie Hall.

Some of Lhuillier’s brides wore lacy tulle gloves with rings on top and others walked in webs of pearls that cascaded over their shoulders and halfway down their backs.

There was romantic drama, but enough to please just about every bride in whites with a touch of latte and cap­puccino shades done in organza and floral embroidery, Chantilly lace and illusion effects.

Lhuillier showed little bolero jackets and a variety of necklines. Some sleeves were caps, others lacy and long. She dropped some waists and offered plenty of long trains both embellished and simple.

Ines di Santo

Never shy about going her own way, Di Santo went for simplicity this time around.

Ever influenced by her Italian and Latin roots, she showed classic looks paired with high, braided hair sculp­ture. She, too, stuck to the whites with a single, elegant pop of bright red that fell to a perfect squared off train.

She finished some backs with covered buttons and box-pleat trains. Floral embellishment was hand-painted on a lingerie-strap gown with a sweetheart neck and an A-line skirt.

Plunging necklines were abundant, including one on a long-sleeve coat with bows worn with a slip dress that had a front slit.

“We started very clean, then we go a little bit more with details but only where you need it. I wanted to be tra­ditional in a modern way,” she said backstage. “The most important thing to remember is the elegance of a woman.”

Marchesa

Think of Castle Howard, a prominent brick-walled English garden, and you’ve got a sense of the Marchesa bride for spring.

Ruffle bows and flower detailing was shown on open-back gowns and dropped-waist bodices. Silver beaded threadwork and pearl embroidery were layered over Chantilly lace underlays and delicate illusion tulle.

Designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman relied on the English rose garden at Mottisfont for their lower-price Notte collection with floor-sweeping gowns in creamy ivory. Beading and threadwork atop tulle was reminiscent of blooming florals wrapped around the garden’s wooden posts and vine-covered pergolas, according to the show’s notes.

The two have loads of red carpet mo­ments on the backs of celebrities, but brides are different.

“People are, like, how is it when some­one wears your gown at the Oscars,” Craig said in an interview. “What’s really incredible to me is when someone shows me a picture of a bride who has chosen to wear Marchesa for their wedding day, who has entrusted us with that moment. It really makes us proud. We get sent photos on Instagram and I really trea­sure those.”

Reem Arca

She celebrated her 20th year in busi­ness in style with a collection inspired by Tiffany jewels.

Acra showed her gowns at Tiffany & Co.’s flagship store on Fifth Avenue. Some models sauntered out of elevators to walk a winding path among the store’s shelves in looks inspired by Tiffany’s signature blue jewelry box. Acra spent time in the jewelry company’s studio to sketch her dresses inspired by the Tif­fany diamond and other gemstones and signature Tiffany designs.

Her finale look was strapless and white in satin with a full skirt. Attached were actual Tiffany pieces, from diamond drop earrings to dragonfly brooches. The jewels, she said, were returned to Tiffany.

Another nod to the iconic company came in a ball gown styled in Tiffany blue, embellished with glittery yellow gold, worn with a full veil with the same shade in accents. Acra incorporated the classic Tiffany bow design in encrusted jewels on a sleek, black sleeveless gown worn with long black gloves. It was one of several gowns in black for her Tiffany brides.

Flirty black bows adorned the fronts and waists of white looks. Strings of diamonds fell from the shoulder of one black gown that fell just below the knee.




 

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