This season’s fashion trends
Print Edition
ARMANI’S wind-swept and beach ready new look
Wind-swept and beach-ready describe Giorgio Armani’s looks for next season, even if most are meant for an urban setting.
The collection opened with a sweeping, double-breasted linen trench with a kaftan feel, setting a casual note. The materials from crinkled linen to crumpled silk also contributed to the carefree mood.
The designer, who turns 83 next month, is securing his legacy of elegance. There was plenty of fresh detail with tapered pants closed with a buckle. A shiny silken suit had a relaxed shawl collar and open pockets. A crinkly white trench was worn over grey trousers. For fun, there were silky combinations of aqua green and magenta top and bottom combinations. For serious business, Armani sent five classic suits with ties down the runway. In the final flourish, the designer reprised it all in white.
Twins leave mark on milan
Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian twins behind the DSquared2 label, have made their mark on Milan — most recently with a neon maple leaf on the former distillery where they showed next year’s warm weather looks for men and women.
The designers put a jangle in the models’ walk with buckled leather straps in neat rows up the sleeves of sweaters, down the legs of trousers and leggings, and across boots.
Hawaiian floral prints were the accent of the season, with floral shirts paired busily with leopard leggings or worn over the trademark Canadian plaid. Painted florals accented leather pants and skirts, and appeared as panel overlays on denim jackets. Men also can indulge in some light ruffles down the front of their tank tops.
The headgear of the season: A military beret over a baseball cap.
Prada’s bit-sized reality
Miuccia Prada took inspiration from graphic novels for her latest collection, which aims to create a dialogue between the virtual world and the real world. The virtual world is in an exhibit at the brand’s Fondazione Prada contemporary art exhibition space. Fashion is Prada’s reality.
Nylon jumpsuits defined the Prada silhouette, belted at the waist and gathered at the ankles and cuffs with plastic Prada labels. Shirt collars were turned up. There was a shorts version worn with Prada men’s knee socks and pointy leather shoes.
The silhouette was repeated in casualwear, with sweaters tucked into athletic-style trousers. Meshed sweaters of horizontal stripes tucked into houndstooth pattern trousers turned up into a thick cuff. Sandals with socks anchored those looks.
Graphic prints appeared in both pastel colors and black and white on shirts, jacket panels and bags. Prada said she added overcoats to unify the looks.
Fendi offering summer elegance
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s menswear collections was exquisitely light, summery in the best and most elegant sense of the word, best expressed in transparent nylon jackets that defined Fendi’s new executive work.
A sheer salmon-colored printed suit jacket allowed a glimpse of suspenders from the back, and yet was weighty enough to give gravitas to the brown striped trousers and complementary golden tie. The Fendi man is down to business, but it may be at poolside, or in a hotel lounge, professional and yet playful at the same time.
“Lightness is our speciality,” Fendi said backstage. “It was interesting to propose it on more classic looks, more traditional, with ties and clothing that I call a bit more executive, and create a contrast with the transparent jackets.”
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