The bold beauty of Milan Fashion Week
GUCCI unleashes fantasy
Alessandro Michele has cast an eerie, dream-like spell over Gucci.
The womenswear collection for next spring and summer was presented through a smoky, reddish light — the theatrical equivalent of rose-colored glasses. All the better for viewing the fantasy-filled collection.
The Gucci girl for next season — the looks require at least a youthful outlook — suggests an antique doll waiting to be dressed up. She can be styled as a Victorian lady, a pretty princess, an athletic boxer or even a denim-clad disco-lover.
The mood veered through eras, but was almost always pretty with a proliferation of ruffles or fringe. Headgear was central, as it is in any dress-up box, and included floppy hats, babushka bandanas and aviator hats. There also was spectacular, beehive-shaped netting that would be appropriate for tending a queen bee while offering protection from stings.
Nostalgia reinvented
Karl Lagerfeld took a nostalgic leap into the future in his latest collection for Fendi, receiving a standing ovation for his efforts.
The scalloping details, aprons that tie with grosgrain ribbon along with sweet bow and rosette appliques risked being quaint, and instead were reinvigorated.
Stand-up scalloping along shoulders and sleeves gave a sculpture effect. Cascading diaphanous dresses were tied in place by ribbon that nonetheless allowed a peek of frilly lingerie. Bold crop tops were paired with a bellowing Turkish trouser that fastened at mid-calf, while oversized cargo pockets stuck out anime-style from the edges of jackets and pants, ignoring convention.
Armani’s globe-spanning looks
Giorgio Armani seems to have harnessed celestial energy for his next collection, an ode to multi-culturalism.
The silhouette was soft, swathing the Armani woman in sarongs, fringe and tassels. The prints, in deep blue and black, contributed to the mood with a swirling effect. A crystal encrusted evening dress recalled the night sky.
Armani has applied hippie and ethnic touches to his classic tailoring this round. A notch-collar jacket defies convention with a cascade of fringe. Tassels swing freely from a belt, layering a short skirt. Head scarves wrapped like turbans complete the look, offering a slightly exotic vibe.
The designer bared the leg with gathered shorts that are more bloomer than Bermuda, cut from sheer fabrics for lightness. The shape was echoed in a short bubble dress.
Dolce&Gabbana’s ‘Italian Tropics’
Exuberant street dancers filled the runway to set an upbeat tone for the Dolce&Gabbana preview show with their acrobatics.
The duo’s collection for next spring and summer was dubbed “Italian Tropics,” a fantastical framing of the designers’ beloved Sicily, and was exuberant in itself, starting off with a series of bejeweled and embroidered jackets paired with flouncy transparent net skirts, hot pants, decorated ripped jean shorts and silken floral print dresses.
If Italy truly had the tropics, its prints would include oversized penne, bundles of spaghetti, colorful cocktails and cones of multi-flavored gelato, which Dolce&Gabbana fashioned into pretty frocks and comfortable trousers and jackets. In keeping with the Italian food theme, jute mini-dresses appeared to be advertising Italian pizza and a specific brand of canned tomatoes. A dress covered in netting had snagged a selection of seafood, accompanied by lobster earrings.
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