Taking a lighter turn while staying graphic
FROM unconventional graphic eyes, bleached brows to full-on color, beauty for autumn/winter 2014 took a turn from the dark eyes and lips we saw last year, writes Phyllis Li.
Graphic eyes
The graphic eye trend continued to be a hit on the runways this season with makeup artists interpreting the look in an even more unconventional manner.
At Anthony Vaccarello, Tom Pecheux dipped dental floss in red lipstick and black liquid eyeliner then drew lines on models’ lids and under their eyes for a “sophisticated and arty cool” look.
At Lanvin, eyes were covered with a cream-based onyx liner, smudged out and paired with faux lashes that were cut clean and square for added contrast.
The eyes also made a statement at Dries van Noten with slightly curved blocks of matte cake eyeliner swathed across the lids that ended just past the corner of the eye.
Then there was Altuzarra, where banana-shaped pink lipstick was drawn across the crease and paired with glossy lids decked with gold glitter.
Tips on how to make graphic eyes:
Allow your creative juices to flow.
Instead of a regular cat eye, draw your line along the crease and experiment with various colors and textures.
For the most staying power, layer different types of eyeliner over each other.
Start with a pencil then go over with liquid liner or cake eyeliner and add powder eyeshadow on top for a bold, long-lasting line.
Suggested products: Shu Uemura Calligraph: Ink Liquid Eyeliner Pen, MAC Fluidline
Invisible brows
Bleached brows makes a comeback this fall. At Alexander Wang autumn/winter, Diane Kendal balanced light and shadow by pairing barely-there brows with very light foundation and slightly contoured cheekbones and lids. Then Pat McGrath created an “otherworldly and surreal” look at Givenchy with sculpted eyes and cheeks contrasted with bleached-out eyebrows and crimson tapes on the temples. At Marc Jacobs, François Nars created real-life mannequins by giving models a matte, porcelain complexion with frosted metallic silver lips, chocolate creases and brows that were bleached and dyed to the same shade as their wigs.
Tips on how to make invisible brows:
While the bleached look may appear cool on the runways, it is too harsh for everyday.
For a faux bleached brow that is more wearable, block out brows with a liquid concealer and lighten them with a tinted brow gel.
Opt for powders, which tend to be softer, instead of pencils when filing in brows.
Suggested products: Make Up For Ever Full Cover Concealer, Maybelline Fashion Brow Duo Shaper
All about color
Although autumn/winter makeup is often associated with dark, smoky colors, brighter hues that were reminiscent of spring/summer were seen all over the autumn/winter runways this year. At Christian Dior, teal and khaki glitter adorned models’ lids while an iridescent lilac made eyes look fresh and ethereal at Chloe. At Chanel, models were given a flick of neon pink, orange, green and turquoise at the corner of the eye to go with their silver eye looks.
For a pop of color at Giles, cyan eyeliner was used all the way on the lower waterline and into the inner corner of the eyes.
Taking things to the next level was Prada, where models were given a combo of bright eyes and bright lips in teal shadow and crimson pouts.
And let’s not forget Manish Arora, where the makeup consisted of acrylic paint used as eyeliner, bright faux lashes and multi-colored beads, sequins and glitter under the eyes to complement the equally candy-like collection.
Tips on how to handle different colors:
Wearing bright colors all over can be distracting. Limit them to sheer washes or simply focus on playing up one feature at a time. If you are going for a bright eye, remember to keep the lips muted. Alternatively, if you choose to wear vibrant lips, go light on the eyes.
Suggested Products: YSL Couture Palette Collector Fétiche eyeshadow, Chanel Les 4 Ombres eyeshadow.
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