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Spring collections delight in the Big Apple
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TOP designers deliver an irresistible range of clothing at New York Fashion Week with their 2015 spring collections. Ralph Lauren takes fashionistas on a luxury safari, Diane von Furstenberg finds happiness, Tory Burch offers a flexible set of looks and Oscar de la Renta lets women bare some skin.
DIANE von Furstenberg
You know that sullen model stare?
Diane von Furstenberg was having none of it at her New York Fashion Week show last Sunday, in which she channeled the theme of the sunny French Riviera in the 1950s. Many of her models smiled as they sauntered down the runway in little gingham numbers or other cheery prints that succeeded in being both sweet and sexy.
Among them on the catwalk was none other than supermodel Naomi Campbell, who closed the show in a short, multicolored chiffon “boudoir dress,” delighting attendees like Whoopi Goldberg. Kendall Jenner, the model and half-sister of Kim Kardashian, also walked the runway.
And the designer herself? She broke into song as she acknowledged the crowd at the end, not merely waving from the runway entrance, as most designers do, but taking an entire lap around the runway, shaking hands, kissing friends and even singing a few bars of the 1970s song “Paroles Paroles” (Words, Words) along with the soundtrack.
Before the show, von Furstenberg said she was thinking not just of the Riviera sun, but of French actress and sex symbol Brigitte Bardot, and also simply of “happiness,” when she designed her collection for spring 2015.
The designer was especially fond of gingham for the show, and it took many forms: in tops, in partly sheer dresses, on bags and even on stiletto-heeled sandals.
“It was flowy, and beautiful,” Goldberg said after the show. “And THEN, you had Naomi Campbell!”
Other celebs in attendance included Allison Williams of HBO’s “Girls,” and sisters Paris and Nicky Hilton.
Ralph Lauren
If you’re the woman who likes to have a luxurious candlelit dinner while on safari, Ralph Lauren hears you.
The designer’s spring 2015 collection was heavy on khakis, safari jackets and cargo pants, and played with the notion of safari as it moved from casual day wear into evening looks, too.
Lauren described the collection as “about an exotic kind of luxury, the spirit of a romantic safari emboldened by luminous colors played against the heritage of pure khakis in sleek and modern shapes.”
His final item was the starkest example: a sage green silk taffeta evening dress that looked like a casual safari jacket on top, only with a skirt billowing out like an evening gown on the bottom.
The runway show, at Lauren’s downtown showroom, began with casual cargo pants, dressed up with an amethyst silk top, or a billowing bright yellow blouson jacket. The theme continued with a coat and skirts in sage green metallic organza, a shimmering fabric that looked like camouflage as the models whisked by. Though safari hues like sage green and tan were favored, bright bursts of color made a splash, like a poppy red shirt dress.
Tory Burch
There were sequins, there were fringes, and there were, of course, purses. Tory Burch’s spring collection was an eclectic mix of bold patterns and looks that could morph from a day wedding to a cocktail party to the red carpet.
Burch said her collection was inspired by French artist Francoise Gilot, whose paramour was none other than Pablo Picasso. But it also appeared African-inspired, with intricate designs, multicolored necklaces and colors reminiscent of those sported by the Masai Kenyan tribe.
Among the key looks: a shirt minidress with color blocks of red, black, blue and orange; cream pants with dark tree prints with a dark-blue solid waist stripe; black-and-white patterned cotton shorts with a fringe; an ankle-long taupe dress accented by metallic designs; and pants with blue, black and cream vertical stripes and tuxedo-like black stripes running down the side. The fabrics were varied too, from knits and cottons to canvas and linens.
Burch is known as much for her purses as her clothes, if not more, and they ranged from multicolored shoulder and crossbody bags to bucket bags.
Oscar de la Renta
There was much to see on the runway at Oscar de la Renta’s Fashion Week show on Tuesday evening. But you were even luckier if you could see into the wings.
There, the 82-year-old designer sat on a chair and looked intently at a monitor as he supervised the movements of each model traveling down the runway. At the end, he emerged smiling — with supermodel Karlie Kloss on one arm — to take a bow. He kissed Kloss on the cheek, then another model. As for his spring 2015 collection, it had all the sumptuous, rich detail de la Renta delivers every time. And the designer seemed happy to show some skin, with a number of his lacy skirts and gowns revealing the entirety of the models’ endless legs, and occasionally more.
The designer began with more casual designs, pairing a large buffalo check print, in pink, light blue or black, with more delicate looks such as a white lacy skirt.
He got fancier as he progressed. An ivory organza embroidered dress was beautifully embellished with hand-painted flowers and ostrich feathers. Another dress, in white tulle, was covered with crystal and ostrich-feather embroidery.
De la Renta’s three final looks were all in a bright key lime green.
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