Soft and pretty creations light up Milan
Print Edition
ALESSANDRO Michele’s second womenswear collection for Gucci, his first with the full creative director title, explores beauty, from the exotic to the garden variety — all of it feminine and romantic.
Michele played with ruffles and pleats. Pleated skirts slide along the hips, worn with sheer blousy tops. Ruffles flounce on the front of dresses, along a trouser hemline and down sleeves. But he also recreated the same accents two-dimensionally, a neck ruffle or a belt.
Dolce & Gabbana’s exuberant collection for next summer paid homage to their native Italy, from Palermo in the south to Verona in the north, giving the country a much-needed ego boost.
Amid the romantic pageantry, there were sheer ruched silk dresses with built-in bra tops and body-hugging ruffled sundresses featuring black graphic strokes. With a wink to the past, the duo created high-waist polka dot bikinis, long lacy caftans with sequin appliques of long-ago seaside performers, and pretty 1950s sundresses.
Peter Dundas sought to underline a sense of ease and freedom in his much-celebrated debut collection for Roberto Cavalli.
Dundas had the delicate task of reviving a brand that was widely viewed as past its prime and paying due homage to the brand’s founder, who hand-picked Dundas and remains an important stakeholder in the fashion house. Dundas stuck close to the Cavalli roots: denim, rock ‘n’ roll sequin jackets and billowing chiffon skirt trains.
Giorgio Armani had the last word at Milan Fashion Week, which wrapped up six days of womenswear previews for next spring and summer on Monday. The 81-year-old designer took a fresh direction for his next collection, designing gauzy pants that lightly reveal the body and jackets that wrap the figure.
The colors were also a departure for Armani, with a calm red the sexy protagonist, setting off accompanying shades of blue, white and silver.
“The focus is on the body, revealed by a play on elegant veils,” the designer notes said.
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