Shanghai’s chic, spectacular Fashion Week
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THIS past week, all of Shanghai’s best-dressed donned their finest garments and made their way to Xintiandi for Shanghai Fashion Week.
There were ladies in feathered hats, gentlemen in neon green suits, and even toddlers sporting the latest trends — and we haven’t even told you about the designers’ collections.
The first pick for the week was Black Spoon. Previously described as one of Shanghai’s up-and-coming designers, Black Spoon’s fall collection did not disappoint.
Somber models stomped down the runway to the tune of Korn’s “Twisted Transistor”, dressed in various colors of fur, velvet, and wool. The collection as a whole was an interesting combination of styles — think Tudor monarchy meets military parade. Many of the models wore pieces featuring applique badges and rows of golden buttons, as well as polished, black equestrian boots, while others donned garments boasting bishop sleeves, panniers, and brocade. Black Spoon also favored a layered look, with long fur vests, woolen military coats, and even overalls layered over various dresses and blouses.
In a complete about face from the dense stylings of Black Spoon, the pieces in the We Couture runway show all displayed a bright, ethereal evanescence as they fluttered in the wake of their wearers’ steps. The majority of the pieces were constructed from vivid sheer fabrics, which were then overlaid with floral detailing to create the image of royalty prancing along the catwalk, while the rest were made of sequined and satin like fabrics. Shapes ran the gamut from free-flowing full skirts and billowy sleeves to slinky, form-fitting gowns with translucent ruffles, while colors ranged from deep blacks to bright greens, blues, and reds. The final final model wore a gold gown , beginning in a sheer fitted bodice and long puff sleeve punctuated by the cloud-like confection of gauzy fabric that made up the full skirt. While the model was draped in a knee-length veil, one could still clearly see the sparkling floral detailing on the skirt and cathedral-length train. The piece was reminiscent of a wedding dress — We Couture also designs a bridal collection.
Sparkly fabrics are not unique to We’s fall collection; they also made an appearance during the Makin Jan Ma runway show, which featured a jacket and pants made from a loud, metallic fabric that shimmered green and orange as the models strutted before the awed spectators. Makin Jan Ma’s collection featured a more sporty appearance, with models dressed in oversized sweatshirts, leggings, and flashy Nike sneakers. In addition, there were fuzzy sweaters, purple-printed ponchos and jackets, and overcoats with wide panels that looked like battle armor. This collection was split into two halves: the aforementioned fall collection and a second, Disney-themed collection inspired by Minnie Mouse. With a bass-filled rap song about Mrs. Mouse bumping in the background, models clothed in polka-dotted fuzzy garments decorated with balls and bows swaggered down the runway. While the first part of the show featured traditional fall colors and muted pastel blues and pinks, the Minnie Mouse portion was a riot of color.
Shanghai-based designer Han Lu Lu also showcased a series of Disney looks, exhibiting bow-headed models garbed in cheerful horizontal-striped outfits with mouse ear accents.
Han Lu Lu’s main collection included several vestments with the same sunny color scheme and striped fabric as the Minnie Mouse show, but then diverged into shades of black, gray and browns more customary to fall fashion. A common thread through the majority of the designer’s repertoire was the ruffled, leaf-like accents that edged hems and added texture.
Other commonalities included heavy layering — from dresses over blouses and pants to flowy overcoats over complete ensembles — and combinations of rigidly structured garments with more free-flowing pieces.
Our favorite piece was the oddball of the series — a white gown with a full skirt printed with a large image of a merry-go-round-style horse.
The highlight of the fashion week went to The Woolmark Company that showcased the latest in luxury menswear created in collaboration with local high-end menswear brands TRANDS, Kevin Kelly, ICICLE and Beautyberry — all of which featured Woolmark Gold premium fabrics in their latest 2016 fall/winter collections. The joint Woolmark Gold show showcased their latest collection dedicated to capture the spirit of the modern gentleman.
Woolmark also held an independent Woolmark Gold show with Beautyberry, the fashion label from renowned Chinese menswear designer Wang Yutao, whose spirit was relaxed and joyful.
Once again, Shanghai’s fashion week was nothing if not spectacular, and Shanghai’s designers have once again risen to the challenge of cramming a whole season’s worth of fashion into just one short week.
Weaving innovative clothing concepts into coherent collections, they also managed to re-affirm Shanghai as a newly-established hotspot for world fashion trends. Chic new talent blossoms here every day, promising to keep the city on the world fashion map for years to come.
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