New highlights in menswear
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IT was all about the celebrities and the parties at Paris Fashion Week menswear shows as the buzz around the French capital geared up ahead of the weekend change-over to the glamorous haute couture season.
Here are the highlights of the fall-winter 2016-17 menswear collections at Paris Fashion Week.
Kenzo’s colorful fall
Fall is just as much about color as spring or summer.
That was the overriding message at Kenzo’s tonal harmony of a show that featured 46 funky looks in almost every color of the rainbow.
Often the musing blossomed from a white single-breasted suit and baggy pants. Then, more tamely, purple appeared alongside gray on a bomber, and bright pink came as a flash on winter gloves.
Then the colors went full throttle when a pale blue bomber sheened past guests with large lapels and assorted shiny pants.
The vibrancy continued with stylish check burgundy pants and a must-have wearable yellow ochre sweater with truncated torso — a new signature for designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.
Hermes’ high priestess of menswear
Contemporary yet classical — with a dash of the famed silk neckscarf. That’s the tried and tested Hermes moto, as seen in this fall-winter’s stylish display that began in color and ended in black.
Designer Veronique Nichanian used pink umber, classic caramel and cream, blue with flashes of turquoise and dove gray to carry the start of the collection, which featured some beautiful, masculine statement jackets.
The French designer then threw out the color wheel two-thirds of the way through the 47-piece-collection to introduce a more brooding, slimmer silhouette.
Leather — Hermes’ niche — was used in sheeny pants, shoes and some perfectly cut zipper jackets. There was no great ground broken here but it was a finely executed show.
Paul Smith shows brash collection
Paul Smith baptized the winter trend for color in the brightest collection seen this season.
The fearless British designer took classic ‘50s silhouettes — such as suit jackets and coats with exaggeratedly wide shoulders — and injected his own brand of zaniness via an unusually vivid palette. Orange, bright red, vibrant vermilion and green mixed up with off-white, navy and electric blue.
Sometimes it worked. Sometimes it came off a little brash in the 32-piece collection.
A classic car coat came in green with a turtleneck in bright coral pink, baggy burgundy pants and a wacky orange belt. Elsewhere, a double-breasted check jacket and creased pants was given a lift with black-and-white speckled sneakers.
Givenchy changes direction
In an intimate setting with neon lights and a snaking runway, Riccardo Tisci presented one of his most wearable — and dapper — Givenchy collections to date. The Italian-born designer mixed up and successfully merged styles as diverse as Texan shirts, boots and belt buckles, Savile Row-style tailored suits, sporty hoodies, croc insets, Arab stone inlay-effects, and the random image of a cobra that cropped up aggressively on stylish silken bomber jackets and sweaters.
The 54-look-display marks a welcome departure from the strong sport-aesthetic Tisci has used in recent seasons.
It’s a decision perhaps to boost sales as Givenchy’s menswear line expands around the world.
Standoutlooks included a luxuriant multicolored fur coat with silver-white, brown, tan, blue and flecks of pinks, and a gorgeous woolen tan bomber worn to devastating effect with some classic gray marl pants.
Louis Vuitton’s take on Paris
“I was inspired by Paris — old and new,” said Kim Jones of his Louis Vuitton fall-winter show.
Proceedings began with the dapper suited and coated looks of the Parisian dandy — based on, Jones said, the real-life noble Alexis von Rosenberg, born in 1922 and famed for his styles.
Embellished neck chokers complemented battleship gray trenches, fur coats in blue, burgundy, gray and brown as well as some classy tailored suits in soft brown.
A dalliance with patterns provided the more daring looks: Art Deco graphic shapes adorning jackets, or flecked paint effects on white pants and coats.
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