Music and fashion on Milan’s runways
Print Edition
THE worlds of music, fashion and art continued their long collaboration on the menswear runways of Milan Fashion Week, which wrapped up its five-day run on Tuesday.
The fashion world continued its heartfelt tributes to David Bowie, celebrated as an icon in the music, art and fashion worlds alike, the remembrances touching in their understated persistence.
On one end of the spectrum, designers offered men myriad forms of comfort for next fall and winter.
At the more extroverted end of the fashion spectrum, designers made liberal use of tinfoil silver fabric, creating a futuristic feel to overcoats, trousers and sportswear, as a sort of projection to possibility, escape from the now. But overall the color palette was somber: dark, blue, black, deep green and grays.
Lush and plush
Fendi’s looks for next winter were all about soft, cozy comfort, right down to the pleasantly lush accessories: A parka with yellow fur trim was paired with a large yellow, furry bag.
Plaids and checks on jackets, pants and bags created a homey feel, and Fendi boldly paired mohair jackets with matching pants, for a definite Fozzie Bear feel. The look got even more cozy with a bell-shaped hat.
The attention to detail and luxury were clearly evident in a shearling coat with a check pattern.
Urban acceleration
The Emporio Armani man is urban and sleek, able to move easily in his metropolitan environment. He has a well-defined geometry, but also fluidness. There is no excess, just the essential.
The designer adorned trouser legs with laser-cut squares and shirts with clusters of triangles, creating emblems that wouldn’t be out of place on a space shuttle.
The color scheme was likewise regimented, stone grays, forest green and deep blue, with fabrics sometimes taking on the speckled effect of granite. Shoes were thick-soled, while bags were pragmatic large backpacks and shoppers.
Fragmented beauty
Creative director Alessandro Michele created a dreamlike backdrop to unpack a chest full of 1970s memories for his latest Gucci menswear collection. The looks were presented under a reddish light in the freshly red-carpeted disused train depot that the designer, now in his second year at Gucci, has claimed as his theater.
His runway-realized memories speak of a happy boyhood, with a Sherlock Holmes-style detective cape and cap, this one with crocheted ear covers; Snoopy and Woodstock motifs on T-shirts, a theme that he elaborated later into a Charlie Brown sweater, and a crinkly Western cowboy shirt with boot-leg jeans.
The looks were finished with rings, beaded necklaces and headbands with a hand motif.
A maruber’s tale
Prada’s looks for next season are seafaring, but nothing of the jolly mariner. The mood was somber and melancholy, and also deeply romantic, as the designer said she wanted “to reflect what is happening now with what is happening in history. To see if we have something to learn.”
Sturdy coats and capes, in black, navy, tan and white, had weather-worn collars and lapels, which were deconstructed and then detached.
Trousers were cropped and cuffed, footwear had leather fringe.
Prada topped the looks with sailor caps, and hung clusters of keys on chains at the waist and neat little purses tucked in their pockets.
Discreet detailing
Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier gave some rock ‘n’ roll edge to a decidedly wintery wardrobe.
Amid the tweeds and wools, plaids and checks, the German designer incorporated stage-worthy statements, from velvet double-breasted suits to leather trousers with eye-catching zippers all the way down the front of the leg, silken Henley shirts with tuxedo ruffle details and long scarves, silken and woolen both.
Details set the pieces apart, including a diagonal buckle to close the collar on cashmere overcoats to the coated tweed wool coat that had an eye-catching sheen.
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