Hip and wild looks for guys
Print Edition
PARIS Fashion Week dedicates itself to men this time out with Dior going with a bohemian artist inspired feel, Givenchy turning out an aggressive collection and Saint Laurent opting for a Tex-Mex meets West Coast look.
Givenchy
If the plane represented deconstruction, the collection didn’t take heed.
Instead, Tisci’s rather aggressive show sent out a series of rather conventional sartorial styles that went back in time to his earlier sharp Givenchy menswear.
The sharp-suitedness mixed with the more street black-and-white looks: models sported skull caps, dark earrings and sometimes knee-length boots with thick white lacing.
The looks were contrasting, but perhaps lacked the subtlety with which one of Paris’ most lauded designers is associated.
Dior
Kris Van Assche mixed the staple tailored business suits of the Dior man with a spattering of the easel of southern French bohemian artists.
Navy suiting — with tuxedos and pinstripes — contrasted with Gallic-looking slim striped sweaters and T-shirts in red, blue and yellow.
It was as if to say: this stylish businessman has had enough with working 9-5 and is now chilling out on the French Riviera.
Van Assche based his collection on the life of Christian Dior, who would himself travel away from Paris mid-century and gather in artistic and literary circles.
An icy-cool pale blue denim suit summed up the work-play theme.
Kenzo
On a catwalk by the Seine with the Eiffel Tower in the background, Kenzo chose this season to celebrate all things French, but in a Los Angeles kind of way. Orange county natives Carole Lim and Humberto Leon took the classic Breton stripe and created a funky cultural fusion. They slashed it, broke it up and even blew it up on oversize coats, singlets and enviable tight segmented sweaters. Pastels in pink, mint, tobacco and sky blue, were perfectly balanced by the master colorists. They also made sure every foreign French cliche in the book was covered.
Saint Laurent
It was Tex-Mex meets West Coast at Slimane’s latest show — with more than a little drop of hippy flower-power.
The mix somehow worked, producing a more coherent and stylish show than in previous seasons.
Fashion insiders are used to Slimane’s now-signature shimmering Vegas statement jackets and sparkling disco tuxedos.
But in this pulsating offering they joined striped Mexican ponchos and skinny matador pants embroidered down the side. That was the Mex.
The Tex came in looks that would not have been out of place on Clint Eastwood in “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly,” such as a beige shawl and tan suede cowboy boots.
As ever, the 1960s and 1970s infused the fashion vocabulary.
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