Designers spice up menswear collections
Print Edition
MILAN Fashion Week gives top fashion houses a chance to show off their latest menswear collections for next summer. Gucci finds inspiration from the nautical world, Dolce&Gabbana reinterprets the Spanish influence in Sicilian culture while Bottega Veneta goes with a relaxed feel as if on a wind-swept beach.
Bottega Veneta
A beloved sweater left on a deck chair washes away in a storm, only to be returned much later with the tides, alongside driftwood and smoothed pieces of glass. Reclaimed, it is like a wish fulfilled.
This lovingly distressed look is built into the Bottega Veneta menswear collection for next summer, which premiered on the second day of Milan Fashion Week.
The silhouette has a relaxed vibe, from the loose-fitting sweaters that drape the body casually, to crinkled linen suits with pants that gather at the knee as if pushed up to wade into the surf. The clothes look fit for a wind-swept beach.
Dolce &Gabbana
Sicilian culture seems to be the forever inspiration for Italian fashion designer duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in recent years. For 2015 spring/summer menswear, Dolce & Gabbana embraces the Spanish influence on the Italian island between 1576 and 1713. The collection showcased a Sicilian Baroque flamboyance by celebrating the power and extravagant aristocracy of the Spanish royals, and the national sport of bullfighting. Elements of Spanish dances like Paso Doble and Flamingo are also added to some of the outfits.
GUCCI
The Gucci man for next summer has earned his stripes, along with golden buttons, epaulets, insignias and other trappings of a mariner’s life.
The collection, shown against a background of shimmering water, has a decidedly nautical flair, featuring trim and dignified white, navy and red suits with suggestions of officialdom in stripes. But these are not mere costumes. The collection projects both luxury and a free spirit.
The silhouette is disciplined, with the expected blazer, double-breasted jacket and pea coats, but creative director Frida Giannini also includes jackets with Nehru collars and blousons that can function as a shirt or jacket.
Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli parked a 1970s Ferrari Daytona on the runway to set the mood for a collection celebrating the Miami playboy of the 1970s. A playboy, but also a romantic.
“In the 1970s, I was in St Tropez,” Cavalli said. But rather than reproducing his youth, he transported the collection “because Miami gives me more chance to use palms and big flowers.”
Cavalli’s playboy wears a silky shirt opened to the waist with black-on-white prints of tropical foliage. It’s worn with matching loose-fitting trousers and a light-weight python jacket.
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