A little slice of fashion heaven for women
Print Edition
ARMANI’S fall-winter collection for women takes an unexpected intellectual approach while Jean Paul Gaultier finds Angelina Jolie inspiring, Chanel goes with some chilly looks and Valentino takes fashionistas to Mount Olympus, home of Greek gods.
Armani
Overlays through a palette of red, white and black defined Armani’s fall-winter aesthetic. And the result was a rare intellectual show from the Italian master of safe classicism. Quilted-effect ruffled capes mixed with shorts alongside curved-shouldered pant suits with exaggerated tubular sleeves.
Models with black tulle dresses sported meters of netted veil, pockmarked with red dots — creating the illusion of a galactic constellation of varying density. The body became blurred as the dress took over. Giorgio Armani is proving quite the Paris couture hot-ticket.
Jean Paul Gaultier
There was more than a hint of Angelina Jolie’s latest Disney villain in the air at Jean Paul Gaultier’s bewitched show.
Fifty dark couture creations such as black fur coats, black paneled leather pencil skirts, circular crinoline skirts and exaggeratedly high fringes.
The piece de resistance? A look that Gaultier called “Maleficent.” A model with a long jaw-line, black bustier and dark crepe pants held out a mirror in which she stared, pouted and cackled.
Chanel
Mirror mirror on the wall, who is the fairest of them all?” seemed to be the message at Chanel’s icy-cold fall-winter show. Models with glacial, spiky fringes walked slowly up to a gilded, baroque mirror beneath a burning fire showcasing 70 pale, often white, creations. Glimmering baroque embroideries in silver and gold gave a wintry sparkle to the models, who seemed consumed by frosted vanity in an imaginary palace. The palace in question, said Karl Lagerfeld, was Versailles. Unsurprisingly, the collection was hard to pin down and perhaps overly eclectic.
Maison Martin Margiela
With models’ faces masked or netted, Maison Martin Margiela’s deconstructed show played with unfinished fashion designs. Asiatic-style decorative gowns were cut away asymmetrically in the leg, as if the model had put on the dress before it was finished. Elsewhere, a mish-mash patchwork of fabrics resembled the test samples designers use before they purchase fabric. Dangling cords on blue and red dresses formed a lobster, meanwhile, sending up the Elsa Schaparelli look that Lady Gaga reinterpreted in 2010. It was wacky and creative.
Valentino
Valentino climbed Mount Olympus for inspiration for his new season, bringing back the flowing, draped silks and flat crisscross sandals of the ancient Greek gods.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli produced a strong 61-piece collection in which they showed off the natural beauty of crepe silk, sheer tulle and marbled wool in draped or column silhouettes. Often creations were cinched under the bust thanks to leather bandings in red, white and black, giving the models the illusion of goddess-like leg length.
Elsewhere, details normally seen on Greco-Roman vases, like flowers or olive leaves, were printed on garments. But the show hit its highest point when the designers let the sumptuous fabrics do the talking — with devastating simplicity.
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