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Naxis developed great culture
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MOST people would agree that shepherds good at moving their flocks around the countryside are probably not so talented at urban construction. But the Naxi people who dwell in the southwest of China are definitely an exception.
The ancient city of Lijiang is blessed not only with a beautiful natural landscape but also a mature municipal system that includes tap water reaching every household. That it has been this way for 800 years is regarded as a miracle. Within this ancient city, the Naxi inhabitants created their own culture, religion and a writing system that is the only living pictograph in the world.
The Naxi ethnic minority has a population of about 326,000, with more than 90 percent of them living in Yunnan Province. Most live in concentrated communities in Lijiang Naxi Autonomous County, while some reside in Sichuan Province and Tibet Autonomous Region.
It is hard to find traces of any city wall in the ancient city of Lijiang for a very simple reason: The Naxi ancestors never built one. They regarded the mountains as walls, the rivers as pillows and were firm about living in harmony with nature from generation to generation.
The Naxi people are believed to be derived from a branch of ancient Qiang people in northwestern China, who migrated to Lijiang and settled there in the 3rd century. In 1278, the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368) established the Lijiang Prefecture and appointed the leader Mude of Naxi tribes as national minority hereditary headsmen. It was not until the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) that the hereditary local chieftains were replaced by court officials in Lijiang. The region gradually grew into a feudal manor with a lord and caste system, and people enjoyed life that was in greater harmony with the land.
In their long history, the Naxi people created the splendid Dongba culture. The Dongba religion was polytheistic, Dongba painting, music and architecture flourished, and Dongba script is now the only living pictograph.
As the traditional religion of the Naxis, Dongba is embodied in religious activities such as heavenly worship, nature worship and disease eradication. The ceremonies reveal the Naxis’ belief in nature and ancestors, as well as the harmony between people and nature. “Dongba” refers to the priest who is held in high reputation.
Dongba script is an archaic hieroglyphic language which is used by Dongba religion believers to pass on their knowledge and write Dongba scripture. There are more than 1,400 characters. The rich content of Dongba scripture makes it valuable for studying the Naxis’ ancient philosophy, religious customs and social history. In 2003, an ancient Naxi Dongba document was included in the World Heritage List.
The Naxi language belongs to the Chinese-Tibetan language family. Though a program to put the Naxi language into Latin letters was designed in 1957, most Naxi people today use Mandarin due to their close connection with Han people.
Dongba painting can be divided into bamboo painting, wood painting, paper painting and roller painting. Flowers, insects, animals, humans, demons and gods are among the common subjects. Most paintings depict a harmonious relationship between people and nature. “Saint Path” — a 15-meter-long roller painting that displays heaven, hell and man’s world — is one of the best-known Naxi works.
The Naxi people enjoy many traditional festivals, including jitian (offering a sacrifice to heaven), Torch Festival and Sanduo Festival (offering a sacrifice for Sanduo, the guardian of the people).
The Sanduo Festival, which falls on the eighth day of the second month in the traditional Chinese calendar, is one of the most important Naxi celebrations.
Sanduo is believed to be the fighting god who wears white armour and a helmet while riding a white horse and holding a white spear. He is the supreme guardian of the Naxi people, while some also believe he is the incarnation of Yulong Mountain.
On Sanduo Festival, the Naxis gather at Sanduo Pavilion and sacrifice lambs to the Sanduo god, as they believe that Sanduo was born in the Year of the Goat. Various programs like dancing competitions, horse races and camellias shows add color to the festival.
Like other minorities, Naxi people have their own dress style and related culture. Men’s clothing is quite similar to that of the Han people, while the women’s keeps traditional characteristics. The women in the area of Lijiang wear a rimmed gown with loose waist and long sleeves, as well as a black, sleeveless jacket, pleated skirt and long trousers. The Naxi women also wear sheepskin capes embroidered with the pattern of sun, moon and the Big Dipper, which implies good luck by being “under the canopy of the moon and stars.”
Most Naxi people today wear traditional dresses only during cultural events or other special occasions.
Naxi people eat wheat, rice and corn as their main food staples in the embankment areas, while in the mountains they also eat some buckwheat and potatoes.
Lijiang baba made of flour is the most famous traditional food of the Naxi people. It tastes crispy and is often served with cabbage soup and fried potato.
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