Kick back in Sabah, Borneo

By Fei Lai | 2009-11-21 | NEWSPAPER EDITION

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2008-6-27 0:50:23

WITHIN easy reach of international hubs in Asia, Sabah, Malaysia, is drawing visitors from around the world to savor its natural beauty and tranquility. It's among the lesser-traveled spots in the country.

Sabah is a prefecture on Borneo, the world's third-largest island and it offers mountains, like Mt Kinablu, as well as rainforests and uncrowded beaches on isolated islands. The clear water is ideal for scuba diving and snorkling.

Sabah is a destination for both romance and adventure, Borneo's paradise.

Sunset is breathtaking, offering spectacular views over the South China Sea. The Sunset Bar at the Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort and Spa is a popular tourist spot from which to enjoy the setting sun and sip cocktails.

Sabah has come a long way since its days of headhunting.

Formerly known as North Borneo, the prefecture covers 73,600 square kilometers, surrounded by the South China, Sulu and Celebes seas.

Its geographical location puts it just out of the reach of typhoons and US writer Agnes Keith called Sabah "the land below the wind."

Sabah is the most ethnically diverse state in Malaysia, with more than 34 ethnic groups, 50 languages and 90 spoken dialects.

The area has successfully married technological advancement and ecological preservation.

Weekly tamus (open air markets) in rural towns are an explosion of color. They offer locally arts and crafts, home-grown foods, colorful headgear to keep off the equatorial sun, tobacco and betel nut. Buffaloes wander about.

The best time to go is in the early morning when the sun is less intense. That's when the markets come to life and goods are sold at "pre-sale" prices. Bargaining is expected, as it is throughout Sabah, Malaysia and Asia.

Rope suspension bridges are common and a bit tricky. Locals cross them as they balance goods on their heads on the way to market. Getting across takes skill as they sway and bounce when there is traffic.

The main tamu is held once a year in Kota Belud, north of Kota Kinabalu. It features many cultural dances and there are occasional displays by the renowned Bajau horsemen. These colorful spectacles have become rare, except during state festivals.

Sabahans preserve their authentic charm in a Heritage Village at the Sabah State Museum in Kota Kinabalu. It features accurate portrayals of the various ethnic groups' traditional villages and costumes.

Also unique to Sabah is the water village where huts seem to literally float along the shores. Pristine clear blue seawater floors these huts and residents virtually live off the waters.

To preserve distinctive ethnic traditions, May 30-31 have been declared public holidays to commemorate the Harvest Festival, originally celebrated by the Kadazaan/Dusun, the largest ethnic group in Sabah.

Throughout the monthlong festival, many organizations present cultural performances, foods like hinava (preserved fish) and tapai (rice wine). The finale is the Unduk Ngadau, the equivalent of Miss Universe for Sabah.

Among the many villages that celebrate the Harvest Festival, one of the most notable is Kundasang at the foot of majestic Mt Kinabalu. The merrymaking is similar to that elsewhere, but the view of the mountain is breathtaking.

The granite peak rises 4,000 meters, an awesome sight early in the morning when the view from Kundasang is clear. In minutes the mountain can disappear in clouds, however.

Many visitors climb the mountain, while some return every year to scale the peak. The flora and fauna on the mountain is abundant and especially notable are the carnivorous, prey-catching pitcher plants that trap insects in a funnel.

After a climb tourists often try other ecological attractions, such as Poring Hot Springs, where they soak in steaming common pools. The waters are said to have healing powers and are popular with locals.