A Shanghai you can afford

By Elaine Kurtenback | 2009-11-4 | NEWSPAPER EDITION

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SHANGHAI may lack the grand monuments and ancient palaces of China's capital, Beijing, but this bustling commercial center has plenty of unique attractions of its own: strolls down leafy streets bordered by elegant villas, sweeping riverside vistas and - for six months next year - what promises to be the biggest World Expo ever.

Shanghai is gearing up for its role as China's showcase for the May 1-October 31 Expo, whose theme is "Better City, Better Life," by remaking itself into the country's most chic and modern city - with prices to match.

But with a bit of planning, savvy visitors to this one-time "Paris of the Orient" can easily eat well, sleep comfortably and take in the sights without getting Shanghai'd by over-the-top prices.

A word to the wise: An Expo-related building boom has left some popular standbys off-limits. That includes the riverside walkway along the Bund - perhaps the city's most famous sight with its imposing Western-style mansions. Expect city traffic to be snarled by subway construction.

But this business-minded city of around 20 million still has plenty to offer. Arriving

A cab ride from the international airport in Pudong New Area, east of the city, costs 150-200 yuan (US$22-30). Ignore the touts waiting to grab unwary visitors; bring the name of your hotel or other destinations in Chinese and use the taxi line if you have luggage or are too tired for adventuring right upon arrival.

If you're traveling light, for 50 yuan (one way) the city's magnetic levitation train - the world's only commercially operating maglev service - will whisk you the 30 kilometers into the city in just seven minutes. The maglev connects to the city's Metro Line 2, and 5 yuan will get you across the river to downtown.

Arriving at the Hongqiao Airport in the city's western outskirts can be less convenient for public transport. But a cab to the city's center costs only 40-70 yuan. Don't be put off by that long, snaky cab queue - it moves faster than you would expect.

Another option from either airport is to take an airport express bus, which generally costs no more than 30 yuan.

Where to stay

How low do you want to go? The youth hostels that generally serve backpackers and students can be a good option, costing a minimum of under 45 yuan per night. Shanghai has eight clean, convenient youth hostels, most of them centrally located.

A favorite pick is the Captain Youth Hostel, at 37 Fuzhou Road, just off the Bund. The hostel's sixth-floor bar has views of the river and all rooms have hot-water baths, 24-hour reception service, free Internet access, free movies, free tourism information and free luggage storage.

Another safe option is to book a room at a chain hotel - the Greentree Inn, Motel 168 and Hanting hotels all have many good locations and cost around 200 yuan a night for a room with all the basics. Good eating

Shanghai was renowned for its talented chefs and excellent dining even back in the days before China became a mainstay for fast-food joints and other Western eateries. With few exceptions, the city offers good value for the money, whatever the cuisine.

Shanghainese dishes tend to be relatively sweet and rich, without the stronger, hotter flavors of northern and western China. One highlight is xiaolongbao, dumplings plump full of piping hot, succulent juice - bite carefully.

Locals swear by the Nanxiang Xiaolongbao outlet in the bazaar outside Yuyuan Garden, but be prepared to wait in a long queue, even in the off hours, for a plate costing just a few dollars.

Wujiang Road, which branches off of Nanjing Road W., is a pedestrian street with a smorgasbord of options, inexpensive and otherwise.

Other filling and affordable choices include Cantonese dim sum, especially at any of the city's Bi Feng Tang restaurants, South Korean barbeque or Japanese set meals for well under 70 yuan.