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February 16, 2016

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Home » City specials » Hangzhou

Tradition on trial amid dog meat crackdown

A few weeks back, Hangzhou veterinarian Pei Zengyang treated a golden retriever whose skull was beaten by the owner’s neighbor, who wanted to kill the dog for its meat.

“Once winter comes, we always see an increase of cases of dogs poisoned or beaten,” Pei said.

While many people in the world are repulsed by the idea of eating dog meat, it’s an old winter tradition in some parts of Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Guangdong provinces and Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. The meat is said to provide yang (hot) energy to keep people warm on cold days and also is believed to have aphrodisiac effects.

Raising dogs for meat isn’t done on a large scale, so supply falls short of demand this time of year. That creates a subculture where some people steal pet dogs or hunt strays for their meat.

The golden retriever treated at Pei’s PetShield Hospital recovered after surgery, but it was among the lucky ones. Other dogs are not so fortunate.

In a village in suburban Hangzhou, Yang Ziru, lamented the situation.

“Once winter comes, the number of dogs in our village drops,” Yang said.

“People who keep pet dogs have to keep a close eye on them.”

Last year, police in the city of Anji arrested 26 people in a case involving the poisoning of more than 400 dogs. Two criminals of the gang were selling the dog meat in a local market. Two years ago, a gang in Ningbo poisoned dogs and sold 38 tons of meat, while another group in the city of Jiaxing was nabbed after selling 11 tons.

Several cities in Zhejiang have established inspection and quarantine systems for dog meat, trying to bring some order to the market.

The provincial city of Zhuji was the first city in China to set up a government-authorized slaughterhouse for dogs. The animals are examined before butchering to ensure food safety standards. Dead dogs are not accepted.

Zhuji has become famous for its dog meat. Most restaurants in the city buy live dogs and slaughter them on site to ensure that the meat is fresh and uncontaminated.

Stickers saying huosha, or “live slaughter,” are posted in the windows of such restaurants.

The Xiao Ma Dog Meat Restaurant is a among the most popular venues, though it is small, with seating for only 30.

“We serve the meat of more than 10 dogs every day,” said owner Xiao Ma.

He said he buys live dogs from dealers in Jiangxi and Anhui provinces, where some farmers raise dogs for their meat. The dogs cost from 500 yuan (US$76) to 1,000 yuan, and the restaurant sells the cooked meat for about 130 yuan a kilogram.

Does the city’s inspection system always guarantee the quality of the meat? No, according to several restaurant owners. Vendors often peddle the meat of poisoned dogs by offering cheaper prices and no certification. Though the government conducts random restaurant inspections, authorities admit that it is hard to ensure that no unauthorized meat ever reaches dinner tables.

Spring Festival brought a surge in sales of dog meat, which is considered a prized holiday gift.

“Many companies buy dog meat for clients and associates as holiday gifts,” said Jiang Guoli, a local entrepreneur who said she personally never eats dog meat.

Jinhua, another city in Zhejiang where eating dog meat thrived for years, has broken with tradition. Five years ago, the city’s Qianxi Village cancelled a dog meat festival that stretched back 600 years and banned the slaughter of dogs.

“I strongly support the banning of all dog meat festivals,” said Dr Pei. “It is ridiculous for any government to condone the eating of dog meat. Cats and dogs have been bred to be pets and friends. Why should we eat our friends?”




 

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