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March 18, 2015

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Wandering around Bologna’s lovely streets

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THE beauty of Bologna lies partly in the miles of porticos and its ancient towers, but also its people.

Bologna natives are warm-hearted people who welcome anyone who comes to share their way of life and absorb the city’s enduring charm.

The capital of Emilia-Romagna region, Bologna is the seventh most populous city in Italy. It’s only 37 minutes from Florence, one hour from Milan and less than two hours from Rome. It was the first socialist city in the country and had the most famous communist town council in the West. The city remains famous for its fiery left-leaning politics.

An important cultural and artistic center, Bologna is home of the oldest university in the West. The Old Town is one of the most beautifully preserved medieval cities in Europe. The porticos, nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, date to the 13th century and form the architectural heart of the Old Town that makes Bologna so lovable.

Old Town

Exploring Bologna is made for people who enjoy discovering cultural treasures on foot. This includes Piazza Maggiore, the famous twin towers, the old University and some hidden architectural delights in the maze of alleyways. The city feels like an open-air art exhibition made of impressive churches, noble palaces and other ancient splendors.

However, if wandering and discovering is not your thing, the historical and artistic peculiarities of Bologna can still be appreciated following a sightseeing plan. The most iconic monuments in the city are Piazza Maggiore and the labyrinth of streets nearby.

Magnificent Piazza Maggiore, which was built in the 13th century, is characterized by the iconic wrap around porches. It was the place where people gathered since the market was here. Today it continues to serve this function and is still the preferred meeting place of Bolognese. Here they gather in the shadow of the statue of the god Neptune, a city symbol, with the Basilica of San Petronio in the background.

This grand basilica dominates the square from a raised base that only accentuates its size and significance. It is the sixth largest church in Europe and was dedicated to Petronio, the city’s patron saint who had Greek origins and was Bologna’s bishop in the 5th century. The interior is in Gothic style with an extremely welcoming space with suffused lighting.

This area is surrounded by buildings that have been around for centuries. Palazzo D’Accursio, headquarters of Bologna Town Hall, and now seat of the city government was the official residence of the Papal legates from the 16th to 19th centuries. Across the courtyard is a large corded staircase leading to Sala d’Ercole (statue of Hercules by Alfonso Lombardi, 1519; fresco of the Madonna of the Earthquake by Francesco Francia, 1505); the Galleria del Senato, today the seat of city council; and Sala Rossa (Red Hall), where civil marriages are celebrated.

The palace houses the Municipal Art Collection including works from private collections exhibited in the former apartments of the Cardinal Legates. Among the many paintings, check out the large group known as the “Primitives.” They were created in the 13th through 15th centuries by Luca Signorelli, Donato Creti, Giuseppe Maria Crespi, Tintoretto, Ludovico Carracci, Artemisia Gentileschi and by Francesco Hayez.

Before leaving Piazza Maggiore, play a little game. Below the open arcade of the Voltone del Podesta, between Palazzo di Podesta and Palazzo Re Enzo, there is a “whispering gallery.” Speak facing one of the four corners of the arch and you will be heard by anyone who is at the opposite corner.

From the piazza, walk along dell’Archiginnasio to Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, the first unified seat of the University of Bologna.

Founded in 1088, the University of Bologna is considered the oldest university in the Western hemisphere and its history is intertwined with some of the great names of science and literature. The year 1088 is widely considered the date in which teaching began independently from Bologna’s ecclesiastic schools. At the end of the 11th century, masters of grammar, rhetoric and logic began to apply themselves to law in Bologna, and the earliest recorded scholar was a man named Irnerius, whose cataloguing of Roman legal materials soon went beyond the city’s boundaries.

The building was commissioned between 1562 and 1563 and was to house the lecture halls for the University Study (Law and Arts). Up to 1803 it was the seat of the university and since 1838 it has housed the Civic Library. The upper floor features the remarkable Anatomical Theater, designed by Antonio Levante in 1637 and made from carved wood. The most striking wooden statues here are the wooden sculptures of the “skinless men.”

City of medieval towers

Bologna is known for its surviving medieval towers in the Old Town with the two most famous standing at the ancient entrance to the city.

Together the Asinelli Tower and the Tower of Garisenda are city landmarks. Both date back to 1100. The Asinelli Tower is the highest and is 97 meters. Visitors can climb nearly 500 steps up a long, narrow spiral wooden staircase to the top of the tower. City views from here are splendid. The Tower of Garisenda is a measly 48 meters in comparison and is not open to visitors.

There is a romantic legend that a nobleman insisted on the Asinelli Tower as dowry for his daughter’s hand in marriage. His daughter’s suitor was said to be a man who transported gravel and sand from the river bank to the building yards on the back of his donkey. His bridal price was to have the highest tower in the city.

The Tower of Garisenda was once taller than the Asinelli Tower, but its top had to be cut off for safety reasons. The Tower of Garisenda does not have very strong foundations and is still considered unsafe to enter. And like the Tower of Pisa, neither stands at a perfect 90 degree angle.

Of the remaining towers, Prendiparte Tower in the small Sant’Alò square is worth a visit. The tower has been restored and is now a hotel with only one suite. All 12 floors are accessible, including a roof terrace with great views across the Old Town.

The tower is owned by Matteo Giovanardi, a Bolognese man who inherited it from his father on his 18th birthday. Giovanardi has made great efforts over the years to keep the city’s second highest tower in good condition.

Bologna’s porticos

Bologna’s porticos are everywhere in the Old Town. As the city is rather hot and steamy in summer and rain is frequent in the winter, town planners in the middle ages had the foresight to include arcades into their plans.

The earliest portico was a wooden roof erected outside a shopkeeper’s house to enlarge it and provide trading space. As early as the late 13th century, rules were passed governing the use and ownership of the porticos and these are, for the most part, still in force. The portico is owned by the building it is in front of and public passage must not be obstructed by trading activities. Outside Porta Saragozza, the portico of San Luca is one of the most striking. It was built between the 17th and the 18th centuries and stretches 3,796 meters. It was built as a covered arcade to Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca.

Where to stay

I Portici Hotel Bologna

A great location in the heart of Bologna, I Portici Hotel is just a few steps from the train station and a stone’s throw from the major points of interest. The exquisitely restored Palazzo Maccaferri houses this little gem of style and elegance.

Where to shop

La Ferramenta is an amazing concept store in the center of Bologna. The store carries many cool brands such as Cover Lab, Graz, Theo, Oliver Peoples, MYKITA, KuboRaum.

Momoni features clothing that fits every occasion with its selection of light and silky materials.

Borgo delle Tovaglie is a home lifestyle brand that originated in Bologna. Products include beddings, table and kitchen ware, bath garments and lights.




 

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