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March 4, 2015

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Sydney’s soul best found in the suburbs

It’s 9am on a weekday morning at Sydney’s Double Bay ferry pier. Business folk stride down to the water’s edge, briefcase in one hand and the other cradling a takeaway “flat white” or “long black,” as the Aussies call their coffees. Adjusting sunglasses and stretching out in the hot sunshine, they wait for one of the world’s most spectacular work commutes, the ferry across Sydney Harbor.

In Steyne Park, opposite the harborfront, parents push toddlers on swings beneath century-old fig trees. An elderly gentleman moors his boat and has a cheeky morning beer with his mates at the marina yacht club before returning home with his fresh catch. The entire scene is quite idyllic, but it’s just another day for the residents of this peaceful Sydney suburb.

The spirit of many of the world’s great cities is usually discovered downtown. This isn’t necessarily true in Sydney. The sprawling city, home to 4.5 million people, fans out around its beautiful harbor, whose meandering 240km-long shoreline forms peaceful coves, bays and beaches edged by leafy waterfront suburbs and swathes of natural bushland. It is here, at sandy urban beaches and waterfront parks, on sun-licked village promenades and breezy alfresco cafes that Australia’s quintessential laidback lifestyle is best experienced in all its splendor.

Sydney’s historic green and gold public ferries are a great (and inexpensive) way to explore the harbor. From Circular Quay, at the front of Sydney’s CBD, you can take a ferry, jetcat or water taxi to dozens of beaches, including Bondi and Manly, coastal hiking trails, island nature reserves, and even the popular Taronga Zoo.

Circular Quay and The Rocks

Begin your adventure at Circular Quay, built on a small inlet called Sydney Cove. In 1788, English Captain Arthur Phillip and his fleet of 11 square-rigged sailing ships first anchored here upon discovering the safe harbor and declaring it ideal for Britain’s penal colony.

On one side, dominating the harbor landscape, stands the sail-shaped silhouette of Sydney Opera House and next to it the elegant Botanical Gardens. Follow the waterfront promenade in the opposite direction toward the Harbor Bridge (nicknamed the “Coat Hanger,” for obvious reasons) and you’ll reach Australia’s earliest European settlement — The Rocks.

Here you can wander narrow alleys carved from local russet sandstone, and peruse small boutiques and galleries. If you’re feeling thirsty, stop for an ice-cold schooner (as Aussie’s call their beer, served small to ensure the glass doesn’t get warm in the Sydney heat) at the Lord Nelson, Sydney’s oldest pub dating from 1844. At weekends, The Rocks Market (www.therocks.com) on George Street is filled with creative stalls selling souvenirs by local artisans — from handmade jewelry to eucalyptus-scented soaps. Directly uphill from The Rocks looms Harbor Bridge, Sydney’s iconic steel arch bridge built in 1932 to link the city to the north shore. You can climb right across the top of the 134m-tall beauty on a Sydney Harbor Bridgeclimb (www.bridgeclimb.com), stopping at the pinnacle for unbeatable views across one of the world’s most famous harbors. Sunrise and sunset are particularly photogenic.

Manly

From Circular Quay, join the Sydneysiders who hop aboard the double-decker Manly Ferry for the 40-minute boat ride to North Head, where Sydney Harbor meets the Tasman Sea.

Positioned on a narrow peninsula with the harbor cove on one side and world-class surf beaches on the other, Manly became a holiday hotspot in the 1850s when city dwellers escaped by ferry for some weekend seaside relaxation. The suburb has undergone a modern renaissance with surfboard rentals and swimsuit stores mixing with hip restaurants, cafes and fashion boutiques. Just off The Corso, Manly’s main village promenade, check out Mr & Mrs Smith (www.mrandmrssmith.net.au) for cool resort gear and trendy accessories.

Beside the ferry pier, Hugo’s (hugos.com.au) attracts a glamorous crowd devouring gourmet pizzas and fresh-caught barramundi. Reserve one of the front tables by the windows that open directly onto the boardwalk, with views across Manly Cove.

On the other side of the peninsula lies the famous golden arc of Manly Beach, one of Sydney’s most popular surf beaches. Manly Surf School (manlysurfschool.com) is also among the nation’s finest. Muscle-bound instructors — all pro surfers — teach daily group and private lessons for all age groups and levels, with wetsuits and boards provided. If you prefer to watch than participate, order coffee and cake at The Pantry (thepantrymanly.com), a cute cafe sitting right over the sand in the former beach changing rooms built in 1919.

Double Bay

Facing Manly across the harbor entrance is Watson’s Bay, the first of a coastal string of handsome bay suburbs. Just a short drive from the inner city and offering beautiful harbor views, these suburbs are home to Sydney’s most sought-after real estate.

Travelers wanting to experience a slice of elite Sydney lifestyle can make their base in Double Bay since the late-2014 opening of InterContinental Sydney Double Bay — remarkably, Sydney’s only five-star luxury hotel outside the CBD. Many of its 140 rooms feature balconies offering glimpses through the treetops of the sapphire seawater, plus easy access to high-class shopping and dining.

Some of Australia’s hottest designers — including Scanlan & Theodore and Carla Zampatti — have boutiques along chic Bay Street. Trendy locals can also be spotted at Fish Face (fishfaceaustralia.com.au), a Sydney institution for its gourmet seafood, as well as uber-cool cafe-bars Mrs Sippy (www.mrssippy.com.au) and Pelicano (pelicano.com.au).

InterContinental’s Stillery, a connoisseur gin bar featuring 60 varieties of rare and vintage gins, is a sophisticated new Double Bay tippling spot. It is especially elegant as the early evening sun slants through the bar’s large arched windows. Hotel guests can also enjoy the exclusive rooftop pool bar for cocktails with a view as the Antipodean sun sinks gloriously over the city and harbor — bringing a close to another stunning Sydney day.

Where to Stay

InterContinental Sydney Double Bay

Sydney’s latest high-profile hotel opening is also its only five-star luxury hotel outside the CBD. The elegant abode in the heart of Double Bay village was unveiled late last year following a multi-million dollar makeover. Many of the light-filled rooms feature balconies offering glimpses of the harbor. Stillery is a gin bar and a local hotspot. You’ll also want to wake up in time for breakfast at Stockroom — it’s superb. Website: www.intercontinental.com/doublebay

 

Pier One Sydney Harbor

Sitting atop Pier One, a harborside finger wharf dating from the 1800s, Pier One Sydney Harbor is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection and just a short stroll from the Harbor Bridge (or arrive by water taxi). Guest rooms feature a nautical theme and heritage fixtures, including iron hooks and cargo pulleys. Book a Balcony Suite and enjoy harbor views from your private over-water terrace. Website: www.pieronesydneyharbour.com.au




 

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