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February 15, 2017

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Sustainable wining and dining in California

CALIFORNIA is more than a US state blessed by sunshine. It’s also a food lover’s paradise, offering everything from aromatic coffee to juicy beef burgers, from the deep concentrated wine to mouthwatering ice cream.

What created such a dining wonderland? Sustainable agriculture is a big part of the answer.

It is a hot topic, but defining it is no easy job. Sustainable agriculture is often confused with green or organic farming.

The Agriculture Sustainability Institute at University of California, Davis Campus defines sustainable farming as producing “value-based foods grown using methods promoting farmworker’s wellbeing, which are environmentally friendly or strengthen the local economy.”

Sustainable agriculture is intended to build a harmonious food community, composed of growers, retailers and consumers, said Lisa Francioni, program director at the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.

Ferry Building market

My culinary journey through California started at a food market in the historic Ferry Building in San Francisco, a city famed for its openness and tolerance. The market is operated by the nonprofit Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUES).

Designed in 1892 by American architect Page Brown, the Ferry Building was built in classic Beaux Arts style with a 245-foot-tall (75-meter) clock tower. Today the building is a bellwether of California’s dining scene. It’s packed with food stalls and specialty shops selling agricultural products, most of which are artisanal, locally produced and minimally packaged.

Roaming around the bright and cozy waterfront market, I was captivated by the smells in the air, which alternated between fresh seafood, sweet baked goods, aromatic coffee, umami dried mushrooms and grilled meats. The best way to enjoy the food here is taking it away and eating outside, where you can be bathed in sunshine and contemplate the blue waters.

If you go to the market on Saturday, you may see celebrity chefs mingling with farmers as they share their food philosophies and culinary experiences with visitors.

Blue Bottle Coffee, a small café with white and blue décor and space for about 10 people, is always crowded. Blue Bottle is a major player of the “third wave” of coffee, a worldwide movement that elevates coffee from commodity status to an artisanal product. They buy beans directly from growers, cutting out middlemen and traders.

The café sells coffee less than 48 hours out of the roaster to ensure customers can enjoy the drink at peak freshness. Recommended beverages include the affogato (a shot of expresso with brown butter ice cream) and the classic latte.

Humpry Solocombe, an ice-cream shop close to the café, cannot be missed. It’s known for offering innovative — some might say “odd” — flavors. The shop is named after two characters, Humphries and Solocombe, from 1970s British sitcom “Are You Being Served?”

Try their savory bacon flavor ice cream, or spicy Ancho chilies. They also offer carrot, cheese, corn, cucumber, foie gras, olive oil and potato chips flavors. There’s a blackboard in front of the shop showing daily specials. When I visited, “money flavor” was on offer.

For a real slice of authentic American flavor, Gott’s is recommended. It offers burgers, fries, sandwiches and homemade lemonade. All ingredients are organic.

 

Opening hours: Tuesdays, Thursdays, 10am-2pm; Saturdays, 8am-2pm

Address: 1 Ferry Building The Embaracadero at Market Street

Family-owned vineyards

The best accompaniment to sustainable Californian food is sustainable Californian wine. California features a boundless expanse of vineyards, rolling mountains, a sweeping coastline, and ethereal fogs from the Pacific Ocean — all of which play a vital role in giving local wine grapes a perfect balance of sugar and acidity.

Compared with famous Napa Valley wineries — many of which are commercially run and owned by IT entrepreneur, lawyer, banker and Hollywood celebrities — neighboring Sonoma County is dominated by small family-owned wineries that produce affordable wines with diverse characteristics.

According to Sonoma County Tourism, there are 59,218 acres planted with vineyards in Sonoma. More than 40 percent of these vineyards are less than 20 acres.

“We (winery owners) are farmers. Our definition of ‘Sonoma love’ is genuine, down-to-earth and innovative,” said Joy Sterling, owner of Iron Horse Vineyards in Sonoma County.

Most importantly, local winegrowers announced in January that the county is committed to becoming the first 100 percent sustainable wine region in America within the next five years.

Iron Horse and Benziger are two of the most beautiful vineyards in the county — both are also sustainably certified and friendly to travelers. My visit to the vineyard at Iron Horse in Green Valley, one of the coolest areas in Sonoma, was canceled because of flooding. However, the owner invited me to her house next to the winery.

“I pay a lot for staying in this remote yet beautiful place, especially in building access to water and electricity,” said Sterling.

An organic farm sits next to the vineyard, planting vegetables and mushrooms to supply the winery’s own needs.

Sterling professed a fondness for Chinese culture. Her yard is built as an Asian garden featuring a stone path. The entrance hall displays her collection of purple crystals sourced from Yunnan Province, and a book shelf in the living room is filled with various painting books by Chinese artists.

The winery has also launched a vintage sparkling wine (champagne method) named Chinese Cuvee, featuring Chinese zodiac animals on its label. One highlighted bottle is The Rooster 2012, with a nose of baked apple, toasted almond and orange zest. It also has a rich and creamy texture. Regretfully, this collection is not available in China.

Iron Horse is recommended to many wine beginners because of their organized wine tours, which introduce terroir and winemaking processes. Guests, besides viewing the picturesque Mountain Saint Helena, can see how labor intensive it is to make sparkling wine, tasting it before dosage is added.

Guests can also enjoy a picnic in their redwood gazebo, which accommodates four romantically set picnic tables. Each can sit six people.

 

Address: 9786 Ross Station Rd, Sebastopol, California

To make a reservation, write to info@ironhorsevineyards.com.

 

Family travelers are recommended to visit the Benziger Family Winery, where the owner emphasizes harmony between animals and people to achieve sustainability. The 86-acre winery, known for practicing biodynamic farming, is built on the slopes of an extinct volcano near Jack London State Historic Park. Their Pinot Noir tastes fruity, elegant and pure. Their Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc also deserve a try.

Animals help conserve energy and reduce emissions. Sheep roaming the vineyard help in the removal of overgrown cover crop, eliminating the need for mowing and spraying herbicides. There are also small Scottish Highlander cattle at the winery to produce organic manure. Birds prey on smaller animals which may eat the vines. They also help carry seeds, pollinating the garden.

Visitors curious about ecology can join their educational tour, which includes a visit to their beautiful insectory.

 

Address: 1883 London Ranch Rd, Glen Ellen

To make a reservation, write to events@benziger.com.




 

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