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August 26, 2015

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Sun soaked Tunis bursts with culture and color

LIKE many travelers, I visited Tunisia in search of the exotic. And as I arrived in the capital of Tunisia — with its glaring African sun, vivid colors and mix of Arabic and French cultural influence — I knew that I had come to the right place.

For centuries, Tunisia found itself within the orbit of the world’s great civilizations, including the Romans, the Byzantines and the Ottomans. Eventually, it was conquered by the French in the late 19th century but gained independence in 1956.

While the capital city Tunis is relatively Western, it straddles two worlds. On the one hand, the old medina quarter — occupied by mosques, markets and courtyards — seems straight from medieval times. Meanwhile, the city’s eastern section, known as the Ville Nouvelle (New Town), features several fine examples of colonial architecture from the period of the French Protectorate period (1881-1956).

Tunis’s medina has bustled with life for over 10 centuries, and now boasts more than 20 open-air markets — or souks. In Islamic countries, souks remain an important feature of local culture. They are places where people come to shop, trade and meet friends. The major souks of Tunis are adjacent to the Great Mosque and together form one animated marketplace where visitors can find everything from spices and perfumes to jewelry, carpets and local crafts.

The gold souk, which locals call “the most dangerous market for men,” is a place where men often come to buy jewelry for their brides. According to Tunisian tradition, men must offer jewelry to their wives before — as well as after — marriage as a way to protect the interests of women.

The souks of Tunis are also great places to pick up beautiful hand-woven carpets and rugs. Other popular souvenirs include scented oils, spices and traditional Tunisian hats.

The medina quarter is also famous for its wealth of architectural details, especially its many doorways framed with lavish geometric motifs.

Outside of the city center is one of North Africa’s top cultural attractions: the Bardo Museum. This museum, located inside an opulent former palace, contains one of the world’s most renowned mosaic collections. Here, visitors can see an impressive collection of Roman mosaics — dating from the AD 2nd to 4th centuries — which once adorned the homes of Roman Africa’s wealthiest citizens. Though most of the exhibits are Roman, other rooms are dedicated to the Phoenician-Punic civilization, the Numidian world, the underwater Mahdia collection and Islamic civilization since 15th century.

Sadly, the museum was the site of a terrorist attack in March which left some 20 foreign tourists dead and over 50 people injured. This tragedy was followed in June by an attack at a beach resort at Sousse which left 39 people dead, including its perpetrator. Since these attacks, security has been beefed up at many major tourist attractions. With tourism and hospitality accounting for a major part of Tunisia’s economy, authorities and local merchants are keen to avoid a repeat of such atrocities. Travelers to Tunisia are encouraged to check with their local embassies for up-to-date safety warnings and travel advisory information.

Outside of central Tunis are two destinations which should be on every traveler’s agenda: the ruins of Carthage and the picturesque town of Sidi Bou Said.

Located in a residential suburb of Tunis, the ruins of the vast ancient city of Carthage still draw millions of visitors each year, with many coming to catch a glimpse of its former splendor.

Founded in 814 BC by Phoenician colonizers, Carthage became the center of a maritime empire by the 4th century BC. The Punic wars led to the destruction of the city by the Romans, who began rebuilding on the same site. Carthage gradually fell into ruin after being taken over by the Arabs in AD 695. Today, scattered ruins are all that remain of one of the most powerful cities of the ancient world.

Seaside charm

Mingled among the area’s ancient columns, carvings and terra cotta statues are a host of modern Mediterranean villas, including the country’s Presidential Palace. Here, one can find another of Tunis’s great attractions: it’s sun-drenched coastline.

Tunis’s suburbs include over 25 kilometers of beach front. La Marsa, once a district of Punic Carthage, is an area known for its beaches and is a favorite weekend getaway destination for local residents. Many flock to nearby Gammarth, a seaside resort town filled with big hotels and lush greenery.

The blue-and-white decorated village of Sidi Bou Said, perched on steep cliffs overlooking the Gulf of Tunis, is another big draw. During the Ottoman era, wealthy residents built vacation homes in this village. Later, during the period of French colonial rule, European artists like Paul Klee, August Macke and Louis Moilliet were drawn by the beautiful Mediterranean ambience to establish workshops and studios in the area.

Today, the village is still popular among the country’s elites, many of whom are drawn to its seascapes, cobble-stone alleyways, delightful stone houses, designer boutiques and some of the country’s best restaurants.

While the main bohemian district routinely filled with tourists, it has nevertheless retained its unique, time-honored charms. Flowers decorate almost every doorway and wall, while each window shutter and door is painted deep peacock blue. Superficially identical, many of these doors are adorned with one-of-a-kind crescent moon, star and minaret motifs.

An authentic local café experience is recommended at the Café des Nattes. This hot spot on the village’s main street was a favorite haunt among the artists who called the area home during the 1920s. Today, tourists come to the café for a traditional glass of mint tea with pine kernels. The interior decor has changed little over the years, with its carpets and floor mats, red and green columns, low tea tables and yellowed photographs all bearing witness to its rich past.

Most visitors stop in Sidi Bou Said for a few hours, but to soak up the atmosphere it is well worth spending an entire day there.

Those planning a longer visit should see the former palace of Baron d’Erlanger, which now houses the Center of Arab and Mediterranean Music.




 

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