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May 6, 2015

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Small Holland packs big cultural punch

THE Netherlands has long been a popular tourist destination because of its art museums, picturesque landscapes and international festivals. But with just under 17 million people and a land area less than half the size of east China’s Jiangsu Province, it’s a small country with a big personality.

Of course, Europe is an art lover’s paradise, but many Dutch museums and historic buildings aren’t as overrun with visitors as their counterparts in Paris or Rome. That means you can indulge your interests at a leisurely pace.

Strolling along the canals in Amsterdam creates a perfect mood for the artistic minded. Beds of tulips amid 17th century architecture and scenic bridges evoke the beauty and grandeur of a past still cherished and nurtured.

In Amsterdam, the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum are must stops for every visitor. In The Hague, there are the Escher Museum and the Mauritshuisc Museum. Rotterdam may not host quite the same level of arty exhibitions, but it does offer some exquisite modern architecture.

Then, too, the Netherlands is famous for less aesthetic pursuits. The famous red light district in Amsterdam attracts endless gawkers in front of the windows where scantily clad women sit in often come-hither poses, and the marijuana cafes attract their share of patrons who wish narcotics laws were as liberal back in their home countries.

Synthesizer of Dutch art

Located in Amsterdam’s Museum Square, this national museum would take days, even weeks, to explore in the detail it deserves.

The museum, opened in 1885, exhibits more than 8,000 art objects spanning the 13th-19th centuries. It’s impossible not to be awed by masterpieces such as Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch,” Vermeer’s “The Milkmaid” and Asselijn’s “The Threatened Swan.”

The Golden Age of Dutch art displayed here really gives credence to that name.

The Rijksmuseum’s simple but smart displays offer printed explanations of the work to help visitors appreciate the techniques and historical backgrounds. The Rijksmuseum Research Library in the museum contains the largest art history collection in The Netherlands.

Life of a genius

It’s only a five-minute walk from the Rijksmuseum to the Van Gogh Musuem, an equally fascinating companion museum.

Opened in 1973, the museum contains the world’s largest collection of Van Gogh’s paintings and drawings. There are 200 paintings, 400 drawings and 700 letters. Among the most celebrated works in this treasure trove are the artist’s “Self-Portrait,” “Sunflowers” and “Almond Blossoms.”

The three floors of exhibitions give a rare and exciting glimpse into the life of this celebrated but troubled impressionist. The museum also features notable works of art by Van Gogh’s contemporaries.

The colors of so many of his works are bright and evocative. You gaze at the special beauty of a falling sunflower petal or the burning yellow core of the flowers.

The Hague, perhaps best known for the International Court of Justice, also holds attractions for art lovers. The city is only a 90-minute express train ride from Amsterdam. As the seat of government for the Netherlands, it is home to the Dutch Parliament.

Since 2002, the Escher Museum has been housed in the Lange Voorhout Palace, a former royal residence dating to the 18th century. The museum contains a permanent display of woodcuts and lithographs by the Dutch artist M.C. Escher. Among the works are the famous “Air and Water,” “Belvedere” and “Waterfall.”

Escher was the founder of the school of illusionary painting. His work was largely influenced by the disciplines of mathematics and physics.

A central highlight of the exhibition is the 7-meter-long “Metamorphosis” — woodcut displayed in a circular frame.

The third floor of the museum is dedicated to the Optical Illusion, including a room where the eyes are tricked by multiple interactive displays.

Across the square from the Escher Museum is the Mauritshuis Museum, which houses what is called the Royal Cabinet of Paintings. Its 841 objects, primarily from the Dutch Golden Age, include works by Vermeer, Rembrandt, Steen, Hals and the younger Holbein. Perhaps one of its most famous works is Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring.”

The museum building itself, representative of 17th century architecture, was a former noble residence. It is listed as a Dutch heritage site.

The ancient port of Rotterdam evokes the Dutch glory days of trade, commerce and finance. It is a modern, bustling city that is often called the “Gateway to Europe.”

Modern architecture beguiles visitors. The cube houses, designed by Piet Blom in 1984, represent a village within a city, where each house represents a tree, and all the houses together form a forest. Of its 38 apartments, one unit is kept open for visitor inspection.

A 2-minute walk away is the Markthal Rotterdam, a food mecca of psychedelic design. This original spot is certain to take your breath away. It calls itself “the world under one roof,” and it’s easy to see why.

Local food specialties

This isn’t everyone’s cup of tea but to those with the acquired taste, raw herring is a treat. The marinated delicacy is sold in fish stalls on the streets of Amsterdam, served up plates accompanied by onions and pickles. Quite salty and perhaps a bit reminiscent of Japanese sashimi.

A stroopwafel is a waffle made from two thin layers of baked dough with a caramel-like syrup filling. It originated in the Dutch city of Gouda.

For those with a sweet tooth, this is the perfect treat, especially when combined with rich Dutch milk or yoghurt. Stroopwafel are sold in street shops and in supermarkets.

Try fish and chips, in Dutch style. This version uses herring, cod or whiting, battered and fried. The snack is as good eaten hot or cold.

How to get there

Direct daily fights from Shanghai to Amsterdam are available from KLM Royal Dutch Airlines and China Eastern Airlines.

From Amsterdam, you can then take the city-link express train to travel north to Groningen or head south to The Hague and Rotterdam. Renting a bicycle is the perfect way for getting around Amsterdam itself.

Where to stay

There are lots of traditional choices for accommodation in Amsterdam — including luxury hotels downtown and guesthouses close to museums. You can also try staying at a local host’s place through sites such as Airbnb (www.airbnb.com). Travelers rent a whole flat or rooms at a relatively low price, which provides a home-like environment. However, these premises haven’t been officially licensed as hospitality sites in most countries, so some visitors may want to pass on this option. We found a shared apartment through Airbnb in Amsterdam and stayed there for four nights. It cost about US$40 per person a day.




 

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