Once a vast lake, it is arid land now
Print Edition
ABOUT 100 years ago, Swedish explorer Sven Hedin reportedly discovered an amazing place where “sand dunes were on our left while green jungles were on our right” during his expedition to the northwest China’s Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
He was talking about Kumtag Desert, on the southernmost of Shanshan County, a 1,880-square-kilometer section of the Taklamakan Desert
Once a vast lake, it became an arid land since the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220) as prevailing wind from Tianshan Mountain carried and deposited massive sands.
The desert hasn’t moved northward and has remained as neighbor to the oasis for thousands of years. Now, it’s known as the only desert in the world which joins the town areas.
Kumtag means sand mountain in Uygur language. As its name suggests, it looks like a mountain range from afar, with a succession of tall and massive sand dunes stretching endlessly up and down.
Heading to the desert, you will first be greeted by a park at the foot of the “mountain.” There, lush leaves and tinkling springs contrasts finely with golden sands and jingling camel bells.
Walking up the marble steps, you can see many lifelike sand sculptures, like a dancing Uygur girl, explorer Peng Jiamu and a prehistoric giant lizard. But what will impress you most is a complex of fortresses and buildings in the style of Loulan, a prosperous hub along the Silk Road that later mysteriously vanished. It is said that Loulan was buried under Kumtag.
You can try camel jaunts over vast expanse of sand dunes and enjoy their fascinating and serpentine curvature. Sand therapy is also recommended, which is believed to help relieve joints pains.
If you want to explore the desert more, you can go hiking. Don’t forget to take enough water, GPS, compass, tent and an experienced guide. Also, it’s very important to hire drivers to pick you at your destination.
Setting off from the park and walking southward, it will take you one day to arrive at the Lan’gan Village. For veteran backpackers, however, it’s just a stopover. Their destination is a village called Dikaner at the edge of Kumtag. It takes three days.
The village, at zero elevation, stands somewhat forlornly in the desert.
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