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March 9, 2016

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In the Big Easy, history is beneath your feet

NEW Orleans may look back at a painful past, from the slave trade to hurricane Katrina that killed more than 1,240 people and flooded 80 percent of the city, but nothing, it seems, can bring down the cheer and joyful attitude of its residents.

The birthplace of jazz, New Orleans truly offers a colorful southern American vibe for travelers.

While New York’s nickname is Big Apple, New Orleans is referred to as Big Easy, a nod to the laid-back attitude of local people.

And how could they be stressed? Beautiful jazz music is always around the corner, as is excellent Cajun food.

Located in the southeast of the US state of Louisiana, the city along the Mississippi River has a storied history, not least to celebrate Mardi Gras, a carnival celebration full of funky parades.

It’s the city’s biggest party, and descriptions aren’t exaggerations. Mardi Gras is a city-wide costume party, a massive parade that floats with elaborate feather costumes, intricate masks and, of course, the notorious Mardi Gras beads.

Unfortunately, I missed the big day as my plane landed the next day. But that didn’t mean I missed all the fun: In New Orleans, the party never stops. On top of that, I wasn’t here to celebrate Mardi Grass, but my cousin’s wedding.

New Orleans is a popular wedding destination for Americans. Typically, newlyweds will carry umbrellas as they march and dance down Second Line, accompanied by a brass band and cheered on and supported by their guests.

French Quarter

My five-night trip started at the French Quarter, also known as Vieux Carre, where most visitors choose to stay. There’s a lot going on in this historic area, and one can easily spend several days without venturing too far.

New Orleans’ most famous — and infamous — street is called Bourbon, right at the center of the quarter. Bourbon has become somewhat of a metaphor in the English language, a complex social phenomenon that’s more than just a party street. People who flock to the street parade up and down here every single night. Either you love it or you hate it, but fact is that Bourbon is incredibly influential. As old as the city itself, Bourbon has exported a vision of New Orleans culture around the world.

After Hurricane Katrina hit the city in 2005, Bourbon was the first commercial area to re-open, and it quickly became one of the few happy places when the city most needed a place to forget misery and pain.

Today, people party on Bourbon until they are unconscious, but if you leave the street, you will find that the rest of the quarter is packed with history, color and charm.

Jackson Square is the city’s historic epicenter. Located in front of St Louis Cathedral, it was here that, in 1803, the Louisiana territory was officially transferred from Napoleon’s France to the newly formed United States.

Situated on a bend of the Mississippi River 160 kilometers from its mouth, New Orleans has been the Gulf of Mexico’s busiest northern port since the early 1700s. It was founded by the French in 1718, ruled for 40 years by the Spanish and bought by the United States in the 1803 Louisiana Purchase.

Jackson Square was first laid out in 1721 as a military parade ground and later renamed to honor the Battle of New Orleans hero Andrew Jackson. Facing the square is St Louis Cathedral, the oldest active Catholic cathedral in the country. Adjacent to St Louis Cathedral is the Presbytere, built to match the Cabildo on the other side of the cathedral. Both are magnificent examples of the colonial Spanish architecture.

Both structures are part of the Louisiana State Museums today. The Cabildo is home to fantastic exhibits on the state’s history and the Presbytere is dedicated to contemporary Louisiana and its vibrant culture. It is home to a fantastic exhibit on Hurricane Katrina that delves deep into the events, causes and aftermath. It’s informative, compelling and shocking. Another permanent exhibit explores Mardi Gras celebrations and gives insights into the history and development of the city’s most famous holiday.

Along the edges of the garden of the square, street performers, artists, bands and fortune-tellers conjure a Paris-meets-Caribbean vibe.

Creole townhouses, Spanish-influenced courtyards and ironwork balconies have become synonymous with Southern style. Intimate and romantic, it’s a compact quarter with many attractions in walking distances.

Aside from Bourbon, Royal Street is also worth exploring. It’s lined with high-end antique stores, galleries and some of the best boutiques, all with an elegant colonial charm.

Royal Street has long reigned as one of North America’s leading places for antiques as well as a hot spot for emerging artists.

It doesn’t take much time before a visitor to the Quarter encounters music on the streets. While jazz is certainly the most common music here, the scene today also includes bluegrass, classical, blues and even opera soloists.

Like-minded folk with a carefree spirit gather on the streets to enjoy musicians showing off their talent.

The lower Quarter on the northern end is home to the French market. Similar to those in Europe, the open-air market has been around for centuries. Originally a Native American trading post along the Mississippi River, it used to be a great bazaar but has become a tourist jungle full of souvenirs and trinkets. However, one can still find some interesting local produce and crafts in the open shopping arcades.

If you’re looking for an experience that brings you closer to the locals, Farmer’s Market is the perfect attraction.

Filled with full local specialty foods, seasonal vegetables and homegrown spices, the market also functions as a community event — meet, greet, shop and eat here to get an idea of what life is like for residents.

If you are pressed for time, there are several guided tours inside the Quarter that give you a glimpse into the city’s history. Royal Carriage Tours is fun and takes you to the most scenic spots, and the conductors of these mule-drawn carriage tours really know their stuff.

Uptown and Garden District

If you stay longer in this amazing city, then hop on St Charles Avenue Streetcar and ride it all the way to neighborhoods that feel a world apart from the French Quarter.

A great way to see the city for just US$1.25, the New Orleans streetcar is the oldest continually operating trolley system in the US. Extremely atmospheric, it rumbles beneath St Charles Avenue’s oaks, runs along the Mississippi riverfront and down Canal Street, before clipping Loyola Avenue.

As one of the few streetcars that survived the automobile era, locals use the streetcars daily, even though the buses tend to be a little faster.

I hopped aboard at Canal Street, passed the beautiful St Charles Avenue which is dotted with big oak trees next to superb historic mansions that once housed the city’s most prestigious families. Many of the tree branches are still laden with shiny beads tossed from Mardi Gras floats.

After about 40 minutes, I reached Audubon Park opposite Tulane University, one of the favorite spots for locals to enjoy a beautiful day. A shuttle bus takes you from the park to Audubon Zoo, home to an array of animals from across the globe as well as endemic species.

Stretching from Audubon Zoo to Louisiana Avenue, Magazine Street is the city’s best shopping destination. En route, you’ll discover the charming street lined with quaint Victorian homes revamped into chic and eclectic boutiques. Art, antiques, clothing, home accessories… I recommend you schedule at least half a day to stroll down the street and check out the best shops and boutiques.

Walking towards Canal Street you will reach the Warehouse Arts District, filled with galleries and museums.

After five days in the city, I’d become spellbound by its history, its vibrant music, and its unique blend of cultures. Boarding a plane home was almost heartbreaking — a fate that many countless revelers have suffered before.




 

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