Haikou the gateway to China’s sun and surf
Print Edition
CHINESE holiday-makers may fly to Thailand, Hawaii or Australia’s Gold Coast to soak up some sun on the beaches, but you don’t have to go through passport control in pursuit of a tropical getaway.
Hainan, China’s southernmost province, offers sea, sun, sand and a relaxing respite from the winter cold of northern China.
Most travelers head for the resort city of Sanya on the south of the island, but it’s a mistake to bypass Haikou, the provincial capital 300 kilometers away on the northern shore.
In addition to clean air, sea views, well-preserved rainforests and enough sunshine to bake a lobster, the city also has historic sites and a wide array of city entertainment and conveniences lacking in Sanya.
So why has Haikou been so long overshadowed by Sanya?
Well, at first glance it doesn’t have that touristy façade. Its wide boulevards and towering office blocks are testament to the city’s role as Hainan’s economic and political hub.
But look a bit beyond that for some wonderful sightseeing. The city faces the Leizhou Peninsula, which has plenty of beaches for the most resolute of beachcombers. But after a swim and some tanning, it’s time for a walk through Haikou’s historic sites, old buildings and lively back alleys.
Thirsty? The coconut trees lining almost every street point to an excellent way to quench your thirst. The “city of coconuts” has special teams to maintain the trees and pick the fruit before it falls on pedestrian walkways. Local cab drivers will tell you that being conked on the head by a coconut means that either you are poised to come into a large fortune or you are headed for some bad luck.
You’ll feel it’s good fortune if you relieve the heat of an afternoon with some fresh coconut milk. For 4 yuan (60 US cents) street-side vendors will chop off the top of a coconut for you and give you a straw. Choose a coconut chilled in a refrigerator for the most refreshing drink.
With a coconut in hand, it’s time to take in the city sights.
Haikou, whose name translates as “mouth of the sea,” became a major port city in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). Remnants of its proud past abound.
Among the most interesting sites is Wugong Temple, constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) to honor five Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) officials banished to Hainan; the Tomb of Hairui, the final resting place for an incorruptible Ming official; and Xiuying Battery, a 19th-century coastal fort.
One must-see place is Sotto Porticos Old Street in a preserved area of downtown Haikou. Wandering around the 2-square-kilometer area, one can see almost 600 old buildings, most of them built by rich Chinese businessmen who returned from Southeast Asia to invest in China during the early 1900s.
The buildings feature Western architectural elements and delicate carvings on window frames and handrails. In some older courtyards, original woodworks have withstood time.
The buildings stand side-by-side, linked by exterior corridors that offer perfect shelter from the scorching sun and periodic tropical showers.
Some of the outside walls here are burnt black from past fires; some still bear old political slogans — “Long Live the Great Communist Party,” a throwback to the “cultural revolution” (1966-76).
In olden times, Sotto Porticos Old Street was home to foreign consulates, churches, post offices, banks, temples, chambers of commerce, cinemas, theaters and hotels. Today it is mostly flanked by shops selling an amazing array of products, from puppies, chicks, cats and rabbits to household drapery, kitchen tools, hardware, toys and teas.
When it comes to the mealtime, don’t miss the Yamei Hainan Rice Noodle, a small, somewhat shabby eatery hidden in one old alleyway. That it has been operating for more than five decades tells you something about the quality of the food. The most expensive noodle dish on the menu is only 10 yuan.
Soft, elastic noodles are covered with peanuts, shredded beef and yellow bean sprouts, accompanied by a chili sauce and a bowl of conch soup. It’s yummy.
In the old street area, the Dongmen Market is a great place to marvel at all the exotic seafood for sale. Some of the fruits de mer are dried and packaged, easy to take back home.
The smell of the sea and salt assaults the senses. Here you find dried fish, shrimp, abalone, local vegetables, tropical fruits, live snakes, poultry, dried beef and sausages.
The market is not really a tourist attraction as such. Most of the buyers are from local restaurants, so prices are quite reasonable.
A bit of haggling goes on over prices, but it’s all spirited fun. Just outside the market, a salty lemonade is sold to wrap up your tour.
How to get there: It takes three and a half hours to travel by air from Shanghai to Haikou. From the airport, a 30-minute taxi drive costing about 50 yuan will take you to the downtown. Both Old Street and an outdoor market are in the city center.
Where to stay: The Langham, Haikou blends classic design and modern hospitality, offering guests tranquil ocean views and exceptional service with 249 stylish rooms and suites.
Its restaurants serve up a range of international cuisines. T’ang Court’s menu features authentic Cantonese cuisine, while Atelier serves international and pan-Asian dishes. The Star Bar and Restaurant is the place for a casual drink or barbecue dinner.
Guests may also indulge in the signature Langham afternoon tea, served on Wedgwood china in Palm Court or visit Liquary for an apéritif or post-dinner drink.
The hotel is easily accessible to Haikou’s international airport, tourist sites and downtown district.
Address: 77 Binhai Ave, Haikou
Tel: (898) 6696-9777
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