IMAGINE a hidden paradise in a forgotten nation in a remote corner of the world. Welcome to Tajikistan, a small landlocked Central Asian state once part of the outer realms of the Soviet Union.

Few dare travel on the sparsely populated and rugged terrain of this largely unknown region. However, those brave enough to explore roads less traveled will be richly rewarded with breathtaking scenery, crystal clean air, quaint villages, ancient ruins and warm-hearted people.

Tajikistan is home to the mighty Pamir Mountains, among the tallest on the planet, and lies at a critical juncture where the Silk Road once connected China with the rest of the world. The snow-capped Pamir are at the confluence of three of the world’s greatest mountain ranges — the Himalayas, the Tianshan Mountain and the Hindu Kush. These giant summits stand like perpetual guardians of the heavens. At the pinnacles of the mountain, where the sun streams strong, eagles soar proud and only clouds dare roam, lingers the magical mist of legends and dreams.

We were warmly received at the airport by Jomart, our spirited guide and driver. Jomart was a husky, jovial young man from the extreme east of the country, a beautiful yet barren place where many of the nation’s hearty Kyrgyz ethnic group dwell.

“Welcome to Tajikistan!” he said to us with a broad smile upon our arrival. As I remarked about the beauty of the Tajik women, who are generally a Persian-speaking people with Iranian roots, he just grinned at me and winked.

We were in Dushanbe, the capital, a clean, modest metropolis with new roads and grand Soviet-style buildings. Its wide boulevards and open plazas evoke a feeling of spaciousness totally apart from the typical sensation in modern, crowded urban centers. However pleasant the city was, the real allure of Tajikistan lies in the mountains and countryside beyond.

“Let’s go!” Jomart proclaimed the next day, as he greeted us on a crisp morning. We were off on the legendary Pamir Highway, a rugged, twisty road that traverses the Pamir and once formed a key link along the ancient Silk Road. Negotiating the roadway was the highlight of the trip. Every turn was like a page out of a fairy tale, offering spectacular views of snow-capped mountains, etched ravines and glistening rivers.

Looming behind the forested backdrop of the road, were emerald pastures, bubbling springs and quaint villages. While stopping in one of them, I lay on a blanket of soft grass to enjoy the canopy of clear blue sky, the fluttering of birds and the stillness of nature.

I was mesmerized by the lush green meadows, the apricot tree blossoms, the thatch-and-mud dwellings, the picket fences made from branches and twigs, the grazing cattle, sheep and goats, the mother cuddling a sleeping infant and the inquisitive eyes of a matriarch peeking at us through the crack of an old carved door.

Such is the allure of rustic village life set amid the magnificent beauty of the Pamir. Indeed, the mountains seemed to follow us, shadow us, like a lingering, pervasive spirit.

There is no better way to experience village life than to stay overnight. Homestays are a must when traveling through Tajikistan if you want to understand the intricacies of the people and their culture. Our day ended at the homestay of a local family in the lovely village of Ems. Their hospitality was extraordinary. It was run by Baktor, an outgoing, hardworking man who lived with his wife, children, parents and his brother’s entire family. Baktor and his kin welcomed us with genuine generosity.

We met his father, Aydar, a gentle man who sat with us over steaming cups of traditional tea. The patriarch had seen a lot in life, including induction in the Soviet Army and then the five-year civil war that broke out after independence in 1991. Each etched wrinkle in his face told a story of hardship and tenacity. His dark eyes have gazed upon empires come and gone, people divided, battles fought and nations reborn.

“Today we go up!” Jomart announced the next morning after a hearty breakfast of eggs and fresh flat bread. And indeed, up we went. The tallest mountain in Tajikistan, called Ismoil Somoni, rises to nearly 7,500 meters, and the Pamir Highway is the second-highest international road system in the world. We traversed Gorno-Badakhshan, a large region in eastern Tajikistan that makes up 45 percent of the country but holds only 3 percent of its population. The terrain there was craggy and barren, often looking more like Mars than Earth. The few people roaming these parts are mainly Pamiris, a hearty, colorful folk who consider themselves culturally different from Tajiks and speak a different, endangered tongue.

As we gazed at extraordinary views of towering peaks and colossal ranges, the car suddenly screeched to a halt in front of a small building. We looked at Jomart. “Hungry” was all he managed to say. We were, too. The crisp mountain air quickly builds up an appetite. Ducking into a local eatery, we feasted on local fare of piping hot broth, giant meat dumplings, freshly baked bread and scrumptious homemade jam.

Re-energized and back on the road, we came to the Wakhan Valley, a picturesque region that is home to an ancient people who utter a dialect spoken by less than 60,000 people worldwide. This area was once part of the mighty Kushan Empire, which thrived in the early part of the first millennium. Taking advantage of the Silk Road trade, local people built a network of fortresses to protect their lands. Remnants of these bastions of power still hug the countryside today.

One of the more impressive structures was Yamchun Fort, which featured ramparts and towers and mud brick walls, much of which is somehow still standing. The imposing fortress is situated atop a cliff with nearly vertical sides, a most impenetrable location indeed. Standing majestically in the distance is the magnificent Hindu Kush, with its snow-capped peaks and craggy ridges.

Alas, our exhilarating journey through the heart of Tajikistan had come to its conclusion, and it was time to say good-by to our trusted companion. After a big bear hug and warm exchanges with Jomart, we headed toward our next adventure on the nomadic steppes of Kyrgyzstan.

As we departed, we once again gazed at the mountains of Tajikistan looming in the near distance. Like timeless statues of the earth itself, the ice and rock were bound together in eternal matrimony. Flora, fauna and humans themselves may come and go, but the mountains will always endure.

If you go

Avoid the winter months due to severe cold, brutal wind and impassable roads. The best period is May to September.

Although fresh food is abundant in populated areas, it is recommended to carry protein bars and snacks for the more remote areas. Bottled water is mandatory.

A flashlight is essential. Do also bring sturdy shoes, a rain parka, toilet paper and layered clothing, as daytime can be quite hot yet night-time very cold.

Take care of the extreme altitude. Ascend slowly and bring altitude sickness medicine, anti-diarrhoea pills, SPF50 sunscreen and UV sunglasses

Visas for Tajikistan are required for most countries. You may be able to get a visa on arrival (VOA) at Dushanbe Airport or apply for one in advance. VOA requires a certified document, so it is recommended that a tour agent be used for formalities. Most of the Pamir Mountains are in the Gorno-Badakshan region (known as GBAO), and a special permit is required for entry into GBAO. Your agent can provide you this permit in Dushanbe, in advance.

How to get there

Aside from backpacking or cycling, which we did see a few brave souls partake in, the only practical transfortation method is to hire a car and driver. This is relatively inexpensive in Tajikistan and it is recommended to go through a tour operator. Skimping on transport will yield you an unreliable vehicle, which is not wise when transgressing barren, desolate areas.

Where to stay

Accommodations in Tajikistan will be basic hotels in cities such as Dushanbe, simple guest houses in the main towns, and cozy homestays in the rural villages. Homestays are a wonderful experience and really are the only option in between the sparsely situated towns.