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July 1, 2015

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Bridging the present and the past in stone

IT’S hard to escape the beauty and folklore of bridges when thinking about Suzhou.

Although Baodai Bridge is perhaps the most famous, Wumen Bridge(吴门桥)is also a sight worth seeing. Of the two, it’s survived in better condition.

Wumen Bridge is the main pathway in and out of Panmen Gate. It is 66 meters long and five meters wide, the biggest antique single arch bridge of stone in Jiangsu Province.

I was told the bridge is one of the renowned “Three Scenes at Panmen Gate.” It was built in AD1084 and later rebuilt during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

It was originally called the Three Bridge because it comprised two wooden bridges on the north shore and one stone bridge on the south.

In 1872, the bridge was reconstructed as a single arch bridge, mainly made from Jinshan granite mixed with reddish-brown Wukang stone.

It’s a bit of a walk. There are 50 stone steps on the north and south bridge slopes. Some visitors may feel a bit of puff after the climb up to the top of the bridge and back.

Standing on the bridge, visitors can watch boats floating gently by and can also see a high pagoda and excellent scenery in the distance.

The great stone bridge, the nearby Panmen Gate city tower and the Ruiguang Pagoda form the backbone of scenic attractions on the south side of Suzhou.

While there, I encountered an old antique peddler, who has been selling his wares at the foot of the bridge for more than 20 years.

“Some of the best years of my life are wrapped up in the area near Pan men Gate,” said the silver-haired man, who was wearing a white silk robe and was too shy to give his name.

I stayed and chatted with him for a bit. He said all his antiques come from the countryside. He was a funny old man, but his presence seemed almost an integral part of the charming environment.

Some say Panmen Gate city tower is the best location for sweeping views of old Suzhou, but I tend to think you can’t beat the views from Wumen Bridge, with the tranquility of water passing beneath your feet.




 

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