GULANGYU, the third-largest island off the coast of the southern city of Xiamen, is awash with subtropical greenery, bright flowers, blue skies and white clouds scudding overhead. And perhaps best of all for those wanting to escape the urban rat race, the only vehicles allowed on the island are small electric buggies and public service vehicles.

But apart from its natural seaside beauty and quiet environment, the isle holds a rich historical heritage.

Xiamen was forced to open its port to the West after the First Opium War (1840-42). Soon after Xiamen became a treaty port, Gulangyu became the only international settlement on Chinese soil, apart from Shanghai.

The remnants of past foreign concessions remain in Western-style architecture, a jazz tradition, a piano culture and even the culinary preferences of its residents.

Privileges granted to foreigners included the right to buy property and build houses, which Britain, France and 11 other countries exercised.

But when it comes to stunning mansions on the island, the richest legacies were left by wealthy overseas Chinese who built their dream houses within “spitting distance” of their mainland roots. By the 1920s, there were more than 1,000 villas on the 1.78-square-kilometer island, earning it the name the “Isle of the Rich.”

“The architecture varies greatly,” says tour guide Anna Zhu. “It is hard to name all the particular styles, though you will find both Western influence and traditional Chinese styles. I suppose you could call it architectural fusion, but I don’t think it wise to label them. Every house here is unique in its own way.”

In the absence of cars, seeing Gulangyu is a walking experience. Winding streets weave through groups of mansions. Some were built closely together; some have been converted to museums, cafes, bars and hotels; and some are open to the public.

Their names are a reminder of a colorful past. They include the Eight Diagrams House, with its bright red dome; the Golden Melon Villa, with its Romanesque style; and the Scenic View Villa, a European-style mansion commanding a seascape from atop a hill.

Hai Tian Tang Gou (38 Fujian Rd 福建路38号) is a palatial villa estate built by Chinese-Filipino businessman Huang Xiuliang in 1920. It has become a museum honoring the architecture of Gulangyu.

Entering the museum through a gateway, visitors find themselves in black round patterns — a long mai, or dragon vein, according to feng shui concepts. It is believed to bring good luck to the homeowners and their visitors.

Despite aging, the red bricks used in the construction of Hai Tian Tang Gou remain bright in color and solid in quality. It’s said that brown sugar and sticky rice were used in an ancient brick-making formula to brighten the color. The central building facing the gateway is decorated by Western pillar corridors, underneath traditional Chinese roof cornices.

“Huang deliberately chose a design featuring Chinese structure above and Western below as a way to show his contempt for the way the Chinese were oppressed by Westerners at the time,” says Zhu.

Intriguing stories behind the villas abound on the island.

Huang Yizhu, a young barber who later became the “Sugar King of Indonesia,” bought Huang’s Garden (25 Huangyan Rd 晃岩路25号), regarded as “China’s No. 1 villa” as it hosted many national leaders and preeminent politicians, and spent 200,000 silver yuan (about 14 million yuan or US$2.11 million) to construct a white-marble staircase in the front.

Another funny story is that Huang Zhongxun is said to win the Huang Rong Yuan Tang villa (32 Fujian Rd 福建路32号) from its builder Shi Guang over a poker game. The villa, in ancient Roman style, was built in 1920 and features many carved granite pillars.

The Lin Mansion (11-19 Lujia Rd 鹿礁路11-19号) is one of the most beautiful and famous buildings on the island. It comprises of five buildings constructed by two wealthy Taiwanese businessmen, Lin Weiyuan and his son Lin Erjia, who came to settle in Gulangyu in 1895.

The five-floor octagonal villa built in 1915 is the heart of the Lin Mansion, integrating southern European and Baroque architectural styles.

The Union Church, with its simple yellow-and-white façade, is the most popular spot for wedding photos on the island.

Lin Yutang, the famous Chinese writer and linguistic who was nominated twice for a Nobel Prize, was wed in the church. Afterward, he tore up the marriage certificate. “It is only useful if we were to divorce,” Lin vowed fidelity to his wife.

“He believed that marriage endures longer than romance, and a promise is a tree that gradually grows in one’s heart,” says Zhu.

The elegant lifestyle of the past is also reflected in the number of pianos owned on the island. In fact, Gulangyu has been nicknamed the “Piano Island” because of the hundreds of keyboards once there.

Locals say walking around evening in the past, one could hear the strains of beautiful music wafting across the night sea air. It’s said that many of the pianos were disguised during the “cultural revolution” (1966-76) to prevent their destruction by anti-bourgeoisie factions.

The musical legacy is preserved in the Piano Museum on the island. Its exhibits include a player piano made in 1928, pianolas for children and a Western-made piano decorated with traditional Chinese paintings.

All the 70 pianos from different countries and ages were donated by Chinese-Australian collector Hu Youyi on a permanent basis, on condition that they were well maintained. Hu was a native of the island before moving abroad.

“To some extent, the beautiful things we cherish here are the legacies of many generous people who never forgot their homeland,” says tour guide Zhu.

How to get there: It takes about two hours by air or six-and-a-half hours by bullet train to travel from Shanghai to Xiamen. A 20-minute ferry that departs from the International Ferry Boat Center connects with Gulangyu. It costs 35 yuan for adults, and pre-booking is advisable during peak tourist seasons.

Tips:

• November and December are the best times to visit, when the weather is cooler and the air less humid.

• The island limits visitors to 65,000 per day.

• Eating out on Gulangyu is quite expensive. Those on tight budgets are advised to eat in Xiamen before taking the ferry or to bring snacks along.

• Local specialties on the island include pies and pastry, nougat, flowers and Oolong tea.