Meunier takes the reins
Print Edition
A blunt edginess and a punk femininity with perfectly cut, monochromatic pieces are Ann Demeulemeester’s hallmarks. Part of the influential group dubbed “Antwerp Six,” Demeulemeester established her label in 1985.
The essence of her romantic vision remained the same through the last three decades, yet she decided to exit the fashion house that bears her name in November. She was confident the brand had kept its own identity that will continue growing without her.
At the time, Demeulemeester didn’t name a successor. It wasn’t until a few months later that Sebastien Meunier was revealed to be the brand’s artistic director.
Meunier, rather low-key, was recently in Shanghai as the Belgian fashion house opened a boutique at Reel Shanghai Department Store on Nanjing Road W., its first on the Chinese mainland.
He shares some thoughts about the brand.
How do you balance the spirit of the brand and presenting a new “story” for each season?
Since I joined the brand four years ago, I’ve taken the habit to do this game of working with DNA and new stories even when Ann was there. My own design aesthetics come from when I was the head designer of men’s collection. Ann liked certain aspects of my style and you are always yourself when you work for someone. It’s difficult for me to explain what is her and what is me because a lot of her aspects became my aspects and some of my aspects were involved in the story. I’m a bit more body conscious for garments and I love an architectural approach.
What is usually your starting point for a collection?
Each season is very different. The starting point can be a small photo in an exhibition, a small piece of fabric, flower, a relaxing Sunday in the garden... A piece of fabric gave me the inspiration for the next spring/summer collection that I cannot reveal yet. In this brand, materials are very important for both the men and women’s collections. For men, I love to use materials that are more pure and simple while I love a lot of voile and net for women, a more sophisticated approach.
How would you describe the people who wear Ann Demeulemeester?
They are strong and have real confidence inside that you can’t force. Everyone is different and has their style and personality. This fashion house is for people who want to dream, who are able to be on the edge.
What’s special about the latest fall/winter 2014 collection?
We wanted to show men are not frightened to show their fragility and women who wear Ann garments feel more powerful. We brought the men’s wear and women’s wear together in one show at ready-to-wear fall/winter 2014 Paris.
Ann Demeulemeester’s work is at times romantic, frail, sentimental, poetic… is that also reflected in your asesthetics and style?
When I met Ann for the first time she wanted to work with me on the men’s collection. Lots of influences are common between us. I don’t like to express this myself, but I like to hear people say I suit the brand very well.
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