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February 27, 2015

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Couple defies stereotypes to complete inspirational journey

AFTER landing in Antarctica, Liang Hong put on a wedding dress while surrounded by penguins. She and Zhang Xinyu became one of few couples to marry on the frozen continent.

It was in 2014, and they were nearing the end of a marathon journey to some of the most remote, dangerous or inhospitable places in the world.

It had opened their eyes and their hearts. It also brought international attention.

That day on the frozen continent Zhang surprised his bride by showing her the best wishes sent to them by foreign leaders.

German Chancellor Angela Merkel had quoted a poem, which Liang still recalls: “The experience made us learn that love does not mean to look at each other, but to look in the same direction.”

Shortly after Zhang, 38, and Liang, 36, finished a breathtaking journey that began in 2012.

They had done what no other person in China had previously attempted: They had traveled through strife-torn Somalia; wondered at the irradiated ghost city of Chernobyl in Ukraine; shivered at Oymyakon, the coldest place in the northern hemisphere; and sweltered near the molten magma of Marum, one of the world’s most active volcanoes.

Last year, they completed an 18,000-nautical-mile odyssey, sailing across the Pacific Ocean and down to Antarctica before traveling along the coasts of North and South America in a yacht.

The journey took them through many dangerous places and severe oceanic and climate extremes, but they never stopped.

In the next few months, they plan to drive across the Middle East.

Such a journey required money. Many people thought they were born into wealth. The childhood sweethearts grew up in families of oil workers in Beijing. They started as salespeople before making a fortune in their own business.

As their business grew, they spent their money on houses and cars, as well as shopping feverishly as many cash-rich Chinese do abroad. Zhang says he used to indulge himself and his dream was simple: to earn more money.

The dream changed in May 2008 when a massive 8.0 magnitude earthquake struck Wenchuan in Sichuan Province, killing more than 80,000 people.

As a rescue volunteer, Zhang witnessed many family tragedies. He realized that life is fragile and he had wasted too much time.

“I hope the rest of my life can be meaningful. I want to follow my heart and try something else,” says Zhang.

Accompanied by Liang, he set out to explore the world.

Big world

He chose Somalia after watching “Black Hawk Down,” a Hollywood movie about the true story of US special forces who were shot down over Mogadishu.

He chose Chernobyl out of curiosity about the deserted city and to tackle his own fears about radiation.

He sailed to Antarctica, planning a romantic wedding with Liang.

Their money did not always ease the journey. It took five years to prepare. He learned to swim, dive, sail and master various vehicles, including a helicopter and paraglider.

He visited yacht shows around the world, learning the secrets of seamanship.

He spent six months in libraries, studying the oceans, climates and lifesaving techniques. He e-mailed the US State Department to apply for permission to buy advanced instruments that could be helpful during his expedition.

Waiting for approval took time, but Zhang never thought of giving up. In order to explore a Mayan cave, a world heritage site, he applied to every level of government in Mexico. One year later, he received approval.

Their parents strongly opposed the trip at first, but were moved by their dedication and eventually helped them prepare.

Nevertheless, doubts never fade.

On the road, Zhang found they were often stereotyped as ignorant, cash-rich Chinese. They wanted to try an Arctic Circle camp, but were told Chinese are unable to take part in such a challenging event.

An Australian captain bet they could not reach Antarctica and jacked up his fee to help them.

Even Chinese had little confidence in them. A marine expert in Beijing, after reading their plan to sail across the Bering Strait, said, “They will die there.”

Sometimes they shook with rage at such humiliations, but they also used it as motivation to continue.

And they made history. In 2012, they became the first Chinese couple to camp in the Arctic Circle at minus 71.2 degrees Celsius; Zhang Xinyu became the first Chinese man to explore the Marum volcano; in 2013 they were the first Chinese to cross the 40-degrees north and south latitudes in one voyage; and in 2014 they became, according to some reports, the first couple to wed in Antarctica.

Moving moments

Recounting these accomplishments on television, Zhang wept.

China is still an alien country in distant corners of the increasingly interconnected world. Zhang remembers one foreigner asking him, “Why don’t Chinese men wear pigtails anymore?”

Zhang and Liang speak little English so they always managed to communicate with gestures. “Doing is better than saying,” says Zhang, who built friendships through trust.

In 2012, the couple accompanied two photographers to the Marum volcano on an island in the Pacific nation of Vanuatu. They hired indigenous people as guides, but later learned the people distrusted outsiders, as their ancestors had been colonized by Westerners.

Zhang won their trust by cooking Chinese food. Every day, he would invite the guides to eat first. He never complained when they left little for them. The couple responded with smiles and respected their customs.

When they were about to leave, the chief held Zhang’s hand and said, “The best people in the world are those who speak Chinese.”

The most moving memories, Liang says, were those of the many overseas Chinese who gave them food, knowing they would miss their favorite dishes from home.

Life and death

Traveling has been their life for the past three years, but they have been constantly reminded of their mortality.

At Marum volcano, acid rain ruined their communication equipment. Zhang had climbed to within 300 meters of the scorching magma lake, when he lost contact with his wife and teammates at the top.

At that time, Liang said to others, “If anything happens to Zhang, I will not leave without him.”

Zhang only once thought of giving up when their boat hit a storm in 2013. Liang, violently seasick, could not stop crying and vomiting.

Zhang could not bear to see her suffer and considered ending their journey, but Liang said firmly, “Go on! How can we give up halfway?”

Liang says Zhang’s companionship helped her overcome all difficulties. They also never think about traveling separately. They believe in sharing their adventures together.




 

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