Once again Christmas is upon us! While growing up in Connecticut no other holiday evoked the emotions and excitement of Christmas. It was a little bit like everyone’s birthday that we celebrated together with a decorated Christmas tree, gifts, bountiful food and of course lots and lots of wine. Put all together, it was the most wonderful day of the year.

While the Chinese New Year remains China’s major holiday, Shanghai has developed a true Christmas spirit. There’s plenty to do and drink in our fair city and in this week’s column I’ll introduce some delicious wining and dining options for your Christmas celebrations at home or in a restaurant.

Many bemoan the commercialism of modern Christmases but on the table it’s still traditions and family that count. One of the great Christmas traditions is roasted fowl. In ancient and Medieval Europe this meant large geese, swans and peacocks. Turkey was a much later New World import.

Migratory geese played an important role in Greek and Roman mythology and were often ritually eaten at important pre-Christmas pagan celebrations held on or around the 25th of December to celebrate the winter solstice. These raucous gatherings comprised of meals that often lasted for three to four days until attendees succumb to drink and exhaustion.

The earliest documented celebration of Christm as on the 25th of December was in AD 354 in Rome and roasted goose was on the menu. Other foods at these ancient feasts included dates, figs, apples, wild boar and venison, fresh fish and numerous desserts and alcoholic beverages sweetened with honey. Like the earlier pagan celebrations, these Roman feasts would last for days and involved plenty of gluttony, drunkenness and lewd behavior.

By Medieval times, the nobility continued to devour copious amount of roasted goose and other fowl along with red meats and expensive sweets and wines. Peasants had to make due with more simple fare like cabbage flavored with onions and lesser cuts of meats along with whatever mushrooms or winter vegetables they could forage from the forest. Home-brewed beer was the prevalent beverage of commoners. It wasn’t until Victorian England that Christmas started to resemble the feasts we hold today.

When young Queen Victoria’s reign started in 1837, roasted goose was still a mainstay of the Christmas meal but little else resembled our modern holiday. The first Christmas tree may have been put up in Strasbourg Cathedral in 1539 but it was hardly a tradition in Germany at the time and didn’t arrive to English shores until centuries later. Victoria’s son, Prince Albert, is credited with popularizing the Christmas tree and many other modern holiday traditions. During Victoria’s reign, we see the first Christmas cards, carols and yes, the first Christmas turkeys.

Turkeys were brought to Spain in 1519, but they remained a rare delicacy for the elite. In North America natives and early settlers frequently ate this big bird, but turkey wasn’t specifically associated with Christmas until Prince Albert championed the fowl as ideal holiday fare. By the end of Victoria’s lengthy reign, roasted turkey had already begun to displace the noble goose as the Christmas bird of choice in the British Iles. This history of Christmas fowls has hopefully whetted your appetite, but most germane to your holiday bliss are the foods and wines that will actually adore your table this year.

Some of my earliest and admittedly quite vague memories of Christmas are at my great grandparents home in Bridgeport, Connecticut. I don’t remember much, but the savory aromas of roasted goose and the majestic presence of the winter-fattened roasted goose are forever enshrined in my memory. I was too young to drink, but my grandparents and parents would savor the succulent goose meat with a German Riesling or Alsatian white in crystal glasses. As my father’s love of red wine grew, he would often serve the goose in two course, the sliced breast with an Alsatian white came first followed by the goose leg with a French red.

In fact, the white wines of Alsace, France are among the best Christmas wines. They go wonderfully with goose and turkey as well as other popular Christmas meats like ham or roasted pork. The big three of French wines, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne steal so much of the limelight that the wonderful wines of Alsace are often overlooked. This is a shame as Alsatian whites are among the world’s most unique wines. This region was also a pioneer in France in varietal labeling.

Compared to the great white wines of neighboring Germany, the wines of Alsace tend to be drier and more structured. With this year’s roasted fowl I highly recommend a Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc from top producers like Trimbach, Hugel, Paul Blanck and Schlumberger. Because of their relative anonymity, these excellent whites at good values.

Should red be your wine color of choice this Christmas then you have many options. California Cabernets, Merlots, Zinfandels and Petit Sirahs make great turkey partners while fresh reds like Barbera and Dolcetto from Piedmont or a Pinot Noir from Burgundy or New Zealand are lovely with roasted goose or hams. These food friendly reds also go well with the plethora of side dishes that are popular on Christmas. Some picks would be Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Merlot, Pio Cesare Babera d’Alba DOC and Michele Chiaro Barbera d’Asti Superiore Le Orme DOC, Polissero Munfrina Dolcetto d’Alba and Villa Maria Cellar Selection Marlborough Pinot Noir.

Whether laboring in the kitchen or greeting family and guests, a glass of bubbles is the perfect way to start festivities. Since Christmas comes but once a year, I suggest some seriously good and admittedly rather expensive bubbles — in other words Champagne or Franciacorta. These are two of the world’s greatest sparkling wines that provide a bit of elegance and style to special occasions. For an aperitif or with appetizers try some of the fresh and graceful non-vintage Champagnes from Pol Roger, Piper-Heidsieck, Bollinger and Duval Leroy.

When pairing sparklers with Christmas roasted, I suggest a longer aged vintage Champagne or Franciacorta. These more weighty and complex wines match beautifully with turkey, goose, ham or any other holiday fowl or white meat roast. Some of my favorites are 1996 and 2002 vintage Champagnes from Louis Roederer, Krug, Veuve Cliquot and Gosset. Equally special are the sophisticated 2004 and 2006 Bellavista Pas Opere Franciacorta sparklers that have rested in the cellars for seven years before release. All the aforementioned sparklers are great wines that will surely embellish your holiday cheer.

Shanghai is a paradise for gourmands who love to dine out. One holiday meal at home is probably enough so for one of the holiday meals you may well be dining out. Christmas Eve, lunch and dinner options are plentiful and based on a little research I did, quite tempting. Personally, I think a holiday dinner is not the time to take a chance and try some place new so I tend to stick to my most trusted restaurants. Last Christmas Eve I had a tender and delicious roasted turkey at Shanghai Slims with all the trimmings. This year they’re serving these delectable big birds with a free flow of California Blackhouse Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel wines and also the hearty Michael David Windmill Lodi Petit Sirah.

For an Italian take on this traditional meal, Bella Napoli is serving up roasted turkey preceded by tuna tartar, chestnut soup, gorgonzola risotto with walnuts and pears and finishing up with a pear and ricotta cheese cake. The restaurant has a host of reasonably priced Italian wines to pair with the dishes. In addition to the wines, live Christmas and Italian music is on tap to embellish your holiday spirit.

For something a little different, Ginger by the Park is known for its creative flair. This Christmas, Ginger is offering a classic roast turkey with subtle Asian touches. If roasted fowl doesn’t tickle your fancy, then Roosevelt Steakhouse is offering holiday menu featuring Grilled Rack of Lamb Mushroom Risotto and Prime Filet to enjoy with their extensive list of California red wines. Wherever you’re wining and dining this year, I wish you a very Merry Christmas swimming in an abundance of enchanting wines.

Where to buy in Shanghai

The Wine Residence

(55 Wulumuqi Rd, 3423-9599)

Trimbach Pinot Blanc

Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve

Michele Chiaro Barbera d’Asti Superiore Le Orme DOC

Pudao Wines

(376 Wukang Road, 6090-7075)

Huge et Fils Gentle Alsace

Villa Maria Cellar Selection Marlborough Pinot Noir

Bella Napoli

(4, Lane 946 Changle Rd, 6248-8985)

Italian style turkey meal with:

Polissero Munfrina Dolcetto d’Alba DOC

Caldron Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC

Shanghai Slims

(Sinan Mansions, 523 Fuxing Rd, 6426-0162)

Whole roasted turkey with free flow of:

Blackhouse Chardonnay

Blackhouse Pinot Noir

Blackhouse Zinfandel

Michael David Windmill Lodi Petit Sirah

Ginger by the Park

(91 Xingguo Rd, 3406-0599)

Roasted turkey set menu with:

Eitenne et Sebastien Riffault Sancerre Les Quarterons

Macedon Ranges Victoria Rochford Pinot Noir