To bring out best in wine, don’t skimp on service
Print Edition
THIS week’s iDeal section explores the diversified tea traditions of China. Wine, like tea, has multiple traditions and customs. One of the most important traditions of wine appreciation is the serving of the wine. Buying the right wine is not enough, for optimal enjoyment you must know how to serve it.
Like people, wines need to breath. This is especially true of full bodied, young and tannic reds. In general, the better and stronger the red wine, the longer the breathing time. The process of oxidation helps wine to “open up,” become smoother and more complex. Top reds often need an hour or more before they are ready to drink, but most red wines are ready to be enjoyed 10 to 20 minutes after opening. If time is of the essence, pour the wine into a glass or decanter and breathing time can be roughly halved.
Some great white wines also benefit from some breathing time. Last week, as I traveled from winery to winery in Chablis, many of the region’s top wine makers decanted their best white wines. This may be the case with the most age worthy whites in Burgundy, but most whites are ready to drink as soon as they’re opened.
Temperature is the single biggest culprit in ruining wines in China, yet its also the most controllable factor in improving your wine drinking experience. Serving a wine too cold will hide its intrinsic beauty, but with a few minutes of patience the wine will warm to the ideal temperature. In fact, inferior wines benefit from cooler temperatures.
The best way to hide the flaws of an inferior wine is to chill it about 3-6 degrees below normal serving temperature for that style of wine. The lower temperature will cover blemishes and in all likelihood give you a more enjoyable drinking experience.
The real temperature faux pas is serving red wines too warm. This not only happens in Shanghai but in wine capitals around the world. Nasty things happen when a wine is served too warm. Alcohol, acids and tannins become more aggressive, the balance among the aroma and flavor components becomes distorted and the natural fruitiness of the wine often tastes flat and lifeless.
Drinkers have long followed the adage that white wines should be served chilled, while reds should be served room temperature. Not quite. The standard for red wines being served room temperature was established over a century ago in northern Europe, where room temperatures averaged about 15-16 Celsius. The professional standard used in wine competitions and professional tastings is 18 Celsius or lower for reds, between 7-10 for dry whites and 6-8 for sweet wines. For example a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon should be served 18 degrees while a lighter and more acidic Pinot Noir is better at 15-16 degrees. Lighter and drier whites should be about 8 degrees while more substantial oak aged Chardonnay are best served about 10 Celsius.
One wine that is particularly sensitive to wine service is Beaujolais. To best realize the attributes of these wines you must be careful about serving temperature, breathing time and drinking vessel. This is especially true with the better examples of Beaujolais.
As elsewhere, many wine lovers in Shanghai have decidedly negative feelings about Beaujolais. There are good reasons for this. In recent history Beaujolais winemakers have a rather dubious reputation.
Despite all of this, decent examples of Beaujolais Nouveau can be found, but they’re the exception rather than the rule. Likewise, most the basic Beaujolais AC reds wines still disappoint. The starting point for consumers should be Beaujolais Villages level wines. There are many eminently affordable and drinkable examples. Even better, look for Cru level Beaujolais wines.
There are ten Cru level villages and vineyards in Beaujolais and they represent the finest expression of the Gamay grape. The Cru wines of Brouilly, Regnie and Chiroubles tend to be light bodied with lively and refreshing aromas and flavors of cherries, raspberries and violets. Next in line are the Cote de Brouill, Fleurie and Saint Amour Crus that are medium body wines with similarly fruity characteristics but with more texture and substance.
Where to buy in Shanghai
- About Us
- |
- Terms of Use
- |
-
RSS - |
- Privacy Policy
- |
- Contact Us
- |
- Shanghai Call Center: 962288
- |
- Tip-off hotline: 52920043
- 沪ICP证：沪ICP备05050403号-1
- |
- 互联网新闻信息服务许可证：31120180004
- |
- 网络视听许可证：0909346
- |
- 广播电视节目制作许可证：沪字第354号
- |
- 增值电信业务经营许可证：沪B2-20120012
Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.
