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The Cannery flies high with West Coast concept
HOT on the heels of the success of its sister venue, The Nest, The Cannery hasn’t wasted any time spreading its wings in Shanghai’s gastrolounge scene.
Managing director Mark Klingspon said he started developing The Cannery concept last summer when the Nest was only seven months old and just hitting its stride.
“The initiative to build a new concept was really driven by the opportunity we had for the lovely space and setting of this location on Yuyuan Road,” he said. “We love the high ceilings, the big open front and the grass and trees in front. The grass space out front and the offset will allow us to do some special things like our monthly outdoor ‘bloc party’ or weekend salmon barbecue picnics in the autumn.”
While the Nest has a Nordic/Northern European feel, the main concept of The Cannery draws inspiration from Klingspon’s hometown of Vancouver and the West Coast style of North America.
Design wise, Klingspon worked again with Andy Hall from MQ Studio in Shanghai. A grey color scheme references the ashes from a fire, while black charred wood covers the walls, and a copper glow from the ceiling paneling evokes open flames.
“We wanted to create a laid-back and chilled vibe, with a special connection with artisanal and homemade products,” Klingspon said. “The food concept is absolutely driven by the wonderful fish and seafood prepared in every conceivable way — raw, grilled, real wood fire-smoked, steamed, canned, pickled.”
One of the most popular items on the menu are the steamed clams imported from Canada and prepared right at the bar. “Customers can choose a steaming liquid of beer, wine or sake, and it’s wonderful to smell this cooking at the bar and to dip our bread in the bowl to soak up this lovely broth. We sell these by the kilogram,” Klingspon said.
Though I didn’t have chance to taste the popular clams — they were sold out — I opted for the Yellowfin tuna jaw which exceeded my expectation. Chef Freddy has created the preparation that starts with a slow smoke, then a glaze and finishes on the charcoal grill. The flavor was special, with a lot of meat on this unusual cut of fish.
The canned dishes are another big seller here. The signature is the canned duck liver mousse. Prepared with bourbon as a flavor accent, it’s a simple snack with a mug of beer or a glass of wine.
And we can’t forget to mention the cocktails. First-time visitors should try the popular signature cocktail Montreal Mule, their riff on the Moscow Mule. Canadian Club whisky infused with smoked cherry wood replaces the traditional vodka. Mixed with ginger beer, this is then accented with lime and a yuzu (Japanese citrus) curd.
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