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July 21, 2016

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Pain Chaud excels at tarts, but service falls short

By Hattie Fisher | July 21, 2016, Thursday | Print Edition

GIVEN Shanghai’s history of French influence, it’s no surprise that this glittering Asian metropolis abounds with patisseries and baguette purveyors. Unfortunately, many of these establishments offer only a passing resemblance to the true Gallic bakeries they claim to be modeled after.

At a glance though, one can see potential in the new Pain Chaud on Yongkong Rd. Naturally, the Shanghai Daily had to test whether this place is the real deal, or just another pretender.

On the street, there’s a lovely outdoor seating area spilling out from the interior, leaving the entire space open to the outside.

Of course, you’re all wondering about the food. I hit all the major bakery food groups: breads, pastries, and savory selections. I began with an ample helping of Quiche Lorraine, a classic French offering. I was a bit taken aback that it was served cold, but my Parisian companion assured me that was how it was done in France.

What could not be salvaged, however, was the fact that the crust was soggy — so much so that it was unpleasant to eat, and I scarcely enjoyed the filling. We made short work of the savory pie and moved on to breadstuffs next. Pain Chaud’s fig and wine bread was delicious, and nicely done, considering the additional moisture from the figs. The only drawback was that the loaves are shaped like figs, narrowing to a point at the top that was burnt to a crisp.

Thankfully, the final category reflected the artistry expected of French patisseries and bakeries. First, we sampled the most iconic of French breads: the croissant. The flavors were as expected, and the bake was perfect, as indicated by the light and airy interior. Next, we tried a tart au citron and tart tatin. The crust was divine; not soggy at all, despite the wet tart fillings. The tarte au citron was topped with meringue and had a nice kick of lemony tang. The tart tatin, while not baked upside down as my French friend indicated it should be, was also delicious and piled high with golden brown apples. Again, the crust was delectable.

While the baked goods were delicious, the service was not what I expected. I had called the day before and made a reservation, which no one knew anything about upon my arrival. Moreover, the whole process of obtaining a business receipt was terribly inconvenient. I was told I would have to return the next day to pick it up, which I did only to discover that the staff had apparently forgotten again. I was told I could come by “any time the following day” but my receipt was not ready even at the end of the work day. I was told by a now much abashed worker that I’d have to wait two more days. Overall, I’d return to Pain Chuad for the tarts alone. That being said, they need some serious work on their service.

iDEAL


 

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