New patisserie keeps the sweet dream alive
IT’S a dream come true for French pastry chef Pascal Molines. The award-winning chef has opened his first patisserie in Asia — in Shanghai.
Le Reve, which means “the dream” in French, mirrors Molines’ approach to desserts. The chef has the ability to take abstract and illusory thoughts and turn them into sublime cakes and pastries.
His signature creation is subtilite, a rich and complex layered chocolate cake made from four kinds of cocoa beans. The cocoa ranges from 64 to 99 percent to present different levels of sweetness, acidity and bitterness. The layers include mousse, biscuit, chips and mirror icing.
The cake has earned Molines a Meilleurs Ouvriers de France patisserie award — the highest pastry honor in France.
Molines says a cake can be judged when it is cut. If it doesn’t fall apart when it’s cut, then it’s well made. But the chef adds that there is much more to good desserts than sugar and other sweet flavors.
“Perfect desserts are also about layers of textures and flavor sensations like soft, crispy, creamy and sour,” Molines says.
He likens desserts to good architecture in that they need to be precise, yet beautiful, with both complexity and various layers to create balance.
The adagio is another specialty of Le Reve, which seats nearly 30 people and features robin egg blue decor. The long cake has a sky-like white and blue exterior. Inside are layers of yogurt mousse, brownie and blackberry and earl grey brulee.
It features a blend of textures from smooth to firm to airy. The acidity of the blackberry contrasts the rich brownie and the earl grey brulee adds a long finish.
A good patisserie is often judged on its macaroons and chocolate cakes. Le Reve’s cakes to a large extent are authentically French. They are comparatively sweeter and richer than the lighter pastries popular at Mr Choi Patisserie.
However, Molines has shown a willingness to break from tradition with his macaroon recipes. He uses less sugar and clearly wants to appeal to Chinese tastes with the osmanthus and hairy crab roe-flavored fillings. The hairy crab macaroons feature a distinctly sweet, yet savory flavor.
The jasmine-flavored chocolate cake has a deep cocoa taste with a delicate flowery note, bringing a long aftertaste.
Keep in mind that Le Reve is not cheap. Each small dessert is priced from 51 yuan (US$8.31) to 98 yuan. A 500g birthday cake costs from 700 yuan to 1,200 yuan.
Desserts are limited each day to ensure quality and freshness.
Address: 1/F, Yifeng Galleria, 99 Beijing Rd E.
Tel: 5386-1871
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