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Madison chef raises bar on grab-and-go scene
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TAKE-AWAY eateries are sprouting up all over the former French concession these days. But one of the area’s newest entrants, Madison Kitchen, is being spearheaded by a somewhat unlikely name: chef Austin Hu of Madison fame.
He told us opening a deli has always been a dream of his. “They’re a part of the quintessential New York experience,’’ Hu said. “We’ve always made bread and meats at Madison so it was a small step to focus a little more energy on products that people can enjoy outside of a restaurant.”
The New York-inspired delicatessen on the corner of Huaihai Road M. and Fuxing Road W. is a cozy, casual space that draws big crowds during lunchtime with its delicious sandwiches.
“As for the location, my base of operations has always been around the former French concession, all the way from the first Madison on Dongping Road to the Union Trading Company on Fenyang Road. I love this neighborhood as it’s a walking neighborhood that embraces the multifaceted personalities of Shanghai,” he said.
“My intent is never to create a cool or hip spot. I just try to make something of quality, something that I’m proud of being a part of and I can see myself going to time and time again. I think the emergence of deli-esque establishments is simply a matter of convenience. Shanghai is a busy, active city and we don’t always have time for a sit-down meal. But that certainly doesn’t mean that you should be resigned to fast food or prepackaged lunch boxes.”
Hu said a good deli is measured, in his opinion, by their meats and their sandwiches, first and foremost. And those should certainly be supplemented by tasty and creative sides as well. “We’re making all of our own meats, that includes a legitimate pastrami, a cola brined ham, proper American bacon smoked over peach and hawthorn wood, roast beef that we cook low and slow for over eight hours…” Hu explained.
On my recent visit, I’ve picked the Green Egg and Ham sandwich (55 yuan). It was delicious to the last bite with its mixture of egg salad, cola-smoked ham, basil pesto and cheddar cheese. Other must-tries are the Gentleman Caller (65 yuan), which combines a sourdough ciabatta with a biting horseradish sauce, rare roast beef, pickled onions and cheddar cheese. Another best-seller is the Molten Oppa Love, a grilled cheese sandwich comprised of four different cheeses, kimchi, and ham. The use a dark rye sourdough that’s liberally buttered before going into the sandwich press. The meatballs and broccolini salad are carryovers from the old Madison menu and remain crowd favorites.
Madison Kitchen has a full service bakery that produces all of their sandwich breads and is slowly upping production to sell some truly American baked goods to the customers, both sweet and savory.
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