ISACS is the founder and CEO of EnjoyGourmet, a leading gourmet digital (www.enjoygourmet.com.cn) and print media company in China. He has authored over a dozen wine and food books including the awarded ISACS Guides and other gourmet books and is a wine consultant to governments, wine regions and organizations. He also hosts wine events for leading organizations and companies throughout China. Contact John via jcolumn@enjoygourmet.com.

China is associated with a plethora of images and symbols. Whether depicted in paintings, growing in gardens or wild forests or being consumed by pandas or humans, bamboo is certainly one of China’s most iconic images. Indigenous to China since prehistoric times, this evergreen flowering plant is actually part of the grass family, classified as Poaceae and fascinatingly just like vines has both Old and New World varieties.

Today’s iDeal section explores the delicious role of bamboo in Chinese cuisine, so I deemed it apropos to present a wine region that’s particularly representative of its nation of origin. Many candidates exist, but one stands out. Its Spain’s most iconic wine.

Apex of winemaking

Nestled in the rough and hilly north of Spain, just south of the Cantabrian Mountains, is the wine region of Rioja. Winemaking here dates back thousands of years to the Phoenician and Celtiberian cultures, but it wasn’t until the mid to late 19th century that the region truly gained global recognition for its wines. At this turbulent point of history, winemakers in Bordeaux were being devastated by the phylloxera vine disease so many accomplished winemakers moved to Rioja. The region was proximity-wise quite close and shared several climatic features. The French brought their considerable wine-making skills and more advanced production methods. Over the next century, Rioja achieved recognition and acclaim for making some of the world’s best red wines.

Reaffirming its position at the apex of Spanish winemaking, in 1991 Rioja became the first region in Spain to receive the Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), the nation’s highest designation of quality for wines. Traditionally there are two major factors that define the classic “Rioja style” red wine; first the Tempranillo grape and secondly, long aging in mostly American oak. Today, there are many new and arguably more exciting Spanish wine regions that have captured the world’s attention and admiration, including Ribera del Duero, Toro and Priorato; but Rioja symbolically remains the most important wine region in Spain.

Rioja red wines are predominantly made with the Tempranillo grape. This variety features a thick skin that results in plenty of tannins but is somewhat lacking in acidity and sugar. Therefore, Tempranillo is commonly blended with other Spanish varieties. In Rioja the classic blend comprises mostly Tempranillo that contributes primary flavors, texture as well as aging potential with about 20 percent Granacha that provides fruitiness and alcohol and smaller contributions of Mazuelo and Graciano grapes that impart spicy notes and aromatics.

Rioja is dived into three major sub regions that include La Rioja Alavesa and La Rioja Alta that occupy the more elevated and sloping areas and La Rioja Baja located in the drier and flatter southeast area. Less expensive reds from Rioja may blend grapes from all three regions while most of the top wines come from the aforementioned elevated Alavesa and Alta regions. I’ve noticed that an increasing number of new and innovative producers in Baja are making excellent wines.

The pyramid of quality of Rioja red wines starts with the basic Rioja Tempranillo wines that are young and fresh reds with little or no oak aging. The next step up are the Crianza wines that are aged one year in oak and a few months or more in the bottle. These wines represent great value as they offer depth, character and typicity at reasonable prices. As we ascend the pyramid the wines become eminently more serious. By law, Rioja Reserva wines must have three years of aging with at least one year in oak. Most top producers age the wines considerably longer. Taking into account their power, elegance and complexity, Reserva wines from top Rioja producers are among the best value premium red wines.

At the summit of the quality pyramid are the Gran Reserva wines that have at least five years of aging with at least two years in oak. These tannic and age-worthy wines are somewhat controversial. Beloved by traditionalists for their stewed fruit, smoky, leathery qualities imparted by long aging, some modern drinkers find them over aged and lacking freshness. I consider it a matter of preference. While respecting the traditional school, I appreciate the modernist view. In response to this debate some Rioja winemakers are now making top modern style wines with less aging and calling them Real or other names.

Shanghai fortunately offers a host of Rioja wines from good producers, including two of the most historic, Marques de Riscal and Muga. Both wineries played important roles in building the reputation of Rioja as one of the world’s great wine regions. Another recommended producer with wines available in our city is Solar Viejo. From their basic Rioja Tempranillo to the prestigious Reserva and Reserva Gold, the wines of Solar Viejo offer a quintessentially expressive Rioja experience at competitive prices.

Another endearing feature of Rioja wines is that they’re lovely partners to many Chinese bamboo dishes. Truth be told, bamboo is quite flavor neutral making it an easy companion to a host of wine styles ranging from light white wines to the most robust reds. The only style of wine I don’t favor pairing with bamboo shoots is sparkling wines as the bubbles tend to distort the delicate texture of the bamboo.

Where to buy in Shanghai

Varieties: The king varietal of Rioja is Tempranillo that comprises the majority of the red wine blend with Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano grapes playing a supporting role; the most important white variety is Viura.

Key term: Barricas is the Spanish term for small American, French or Hungarian barrels that are used to age the best red wines of Rioja.