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January 22, 2015

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Decent, low-cost Bordeaux a reason to cheer

TO say that China has a thirst for Bordeaux wines is a vast understatement. China is the biggest Bordeaux market in the world as well as the biggest red wine market. In the domestic red wine market, Bordeaux remains king though the market dynamics are changing in a fascinating way.

The most famous and expensive classified growths of the left and right banks of Bordeaux have seen rather precipitous price drops primarily due to the government’s austerity campaign and slower economic growth. The growing maturity and sophistication of wine drinkers in China is also playing a role as these consumers are looking for more bang from their wine expenditures.

Dare I say that the age of budget Bordeaux wines is upon us?

Inexpensive Bordeaux

I have long lamented the plethora of low-quality Bordeaux wines adorning the shelves of supermarkets and wine shops in China. These unripe, insipid 11.5-12 percent low-alcohol wines are quite frankly dangerous to your palate and insulting to your guests.

But even a longtime cheap Bordeaux naysayer like myself has to admit that change is afoot and while plenty of bad Bordeaux wines still exist, there are ever increasing examples of riper, better-made Bordeaux red wines in the 100- to 250-yuan (US$16.1-US$40.3)price range.

Some cite the somewhat surprising beneficial impact of global warming on the Bordeaux region. Traditionally, this chilly Atlantic region frequently struggled to achieve consistent grape ripeness but since the turn of the millennium warmer temperatures have helped producers achieve ripe fruit.

This is especially important for producers who make less-expensive wines because, unlike the more costly classified growths chateaux, they cannot afford to be as selective with grapes.

The quest for commendable inexpensive Bordeaux wines begins at the basic AOC level. Many wines in this category still don’t make the grade but an increasing number of very drinkable AOC reds from the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages are appearing. These wines have a minimum 12.5 percent alcohol content and now often reach 13 or even 14 percent.

Available for well under 200 yuan retail, standouts in this class include Chateau Mondain 2009 and 2010, a 65 percent Merlot and 35 percent Cabernet Sauvignon wine with a delicate and supple nature, and Chateau Nadeau 2010, predominantly Merlot featuring a fine balance between fruitiness and tannins.

Another fine example of quality AOC wines is the Chateau Pasquet 2010, a structured wine offering robust dark fruit flavors and good ripeness at 13 percent alcohol. Owned by the Beaugency family, this wine has a higher contribution of the seldom-used Malbec grape.

One step up above the basic AOC level are Bordeaux Superieur wines that range in quality from mediocre to surprisingly good. While the designation Superieur doesn’t really mean a superior wine, it usually offers a slightly more classy drinking experience. The Chateau Guillaume Blanc 2010 and 2011 wines are both fine examples of well-made Bordeaux reds with plenty of fruit and good structure.

Another very nice wine in this category is the 2008 Chateau Timberlay Superieur, a large producer of consistently good-drinking, affordable wines.

Perhaps the nicest Bordeaux Superieur wine I’ve tasted recently is the Chateau Terre de grand 2010, a charming Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend with generous elegant black fruit offerings with a touch of spice and gentle, palate-coating tannins.

Serving and pairing

Most AOC and Bordeaux Superieur wines are mostly Merlot blended with a good dose of Cabernet Sauvignon and occasionally some Cabernet Franc or even Malbec thrown in. These wines generally don’t need decanting though they benefit from 15 to 20 minutes of breathing time and should never be served warmer than 18 degrees Celsius. Therefore it’s usually a good idea to stick them in the fridge for about 10 minutes before serving.

Even inexpensive Bordeaux reds are likely to be structured with good tannic backbone, so they are not ideal afternoon sippers or aperitif wines. Instead these are wines that deserve to be served with good meals, especially those featuring red meats and hard to semi-hard cheeses.

Classic partners in the West include beef rib steak with a rich sauce of Bordeaux red wine, shallots, herbs and bone marrow, roasted or grilled baby Pauillac rack or leg of lamb liberally sprinkled with fresh herbs and slow roast prime rib.

These vino-meat duets have synergistically existed for centuries, so it’s little surprise that they work so wonderfully together. More challenging, but equally rewarding is pairing these structured reds with Chinese dishes.

Two of my favorite dishes to enjoy with Bordeaux red wines are modern Shanghai-style slow-roasted beef ribs and Yunnan-style fried lamb ribs. In both cases the dark fruit flavors in the wines embellish the natural flavors of the meats, in many ways acting as a complementary sauce, while the tannins cleanse the palate and facilitate digestion.

New age

Historically, no other wine region in the world makes as many premium red wines as Bordeaux, and its especially uplifting to see more and more affordable examples available in China.

Bordeaux is now finally giving low-cost wine-producing regions in southern Italy, Spain and the New World a run for their money. These warmer and more stable climate wine regions seldom have a problem achieving ripeness, but they frequently produce wines that lack structure and balance. It’s indeed heartening for Chinese consumers and wine lovers around the world to see an increasing number of budget Bordeaux producers making some of the most balanced and structured low-cost wines in the world.

As the palates of Chinese consumers are becoming more discerning and they are looking for more than just prestige labels, we may be entering the dawn of a new, more honest and sustainable golden age of Bordeaux in China. I’ll certainly say cheers to that!




 

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